Cape of Goat Hope
Goat, according to those who predict eating trends, will soon be our national flesh of preference, across all cultures and income groups. Not only are goats cheap, plentiful, and free-range (eat a goat, save a washing line), their meat can also be surprisingly edible.
For wannabe trendsetters, Cape Winelands Cuisine contains an immensely complex recipe for boergoat terrine. "Not for the inexperienced cook," reads the introduction, which also gives some of the history of the boer goat (it wandered down from North Africa, was husbanded by Namaquas in the Cape in the 1600s, and at some point got crossed with imported Swiss milk goats).
There's more to this book than goat, however. It is both history lesson and culinary exploration. Author Hetta van Deventer meticulously researched the origins of Cape dishes, then recreated them with help from the chefs at La Motte wine estate.
Every recipe tells a story. You may not know, for instance, that cupcakes were brought to the Cape by the Dutch in the 17th century. Known in the Netherlands as kollebijne or colombyntjies, in the Cape they became kolwyntjies, cooked on the fire with coals on the lid as well as under the pan.
There are recipes that have understandably fallen from grace in picky households, such as stuffed sheep's stomach, and some that deserve to be resurrected, such as oyster and marrow pies in golden flaky pastry. (Veal marrow removed from the bone was commonly used instead of butter or fat in Jan van Riebeeck's time.) There's a mussel bobotie with pickles, a formula for home-made boerewors and some marvellous soups, stews, curries, salads and sweets for the less adventurous. Eat and learn. - Sue de Groot
'Cape Winelands Cuisine'by Hetta van Deventer and La Motte (Human & Rousseau, R450)