The Restaurant: Parreirinha, Joburg

Mothers come in all shapes, sizes and forms. We happen to quite like ours - and mothers in general - so in their honour we popped into Parreirinha in La Rochelle, which has been around for almost as long as its matriarch - about 40 years.

It's an icon of the Deep South, run by the Da Cunha family, with mama in charge. For those who feel the need to take out insurance whenever they venture south of Empire Road, don't bother. Sixth Street might look a little rough, but the restaurant is well lit, there's a security guard at the door and a number of self-appointed car guards.

The restaurant is located in a converted police station - apparently the bars of the old cells are still visible in places. Perhaps because of its origins, it is something of a labyrinth. The smoking and non-smoking sections are very separate, as is an adjoining bar.

The smoking section was packed and had the better buzz, but we didn't notice a single person smoking. The non-smoking section was less full, a little more sterile, and exposed to a cold blast every time the front door opened. Go sit with those who pretend to be smokers.

For starters, we ordered Portuguese sardines (R28), chorizo (R49) and the house's big seller, prawn cakes (R28.50 for three). The sardines were plump and well grilled. The prawn cakes were crispy and filled with an unctuous sauce of prawn mixed with a dash of tomato, onion, chilli and garlic. These fully deserve their reputation.

For the main course, what other than prawns and a Portuguese steak? The steak (R98) was as good as any you might encounter in a northern suburbs steakhouse - medium-rare and succulent, topped with a gleaming fried egg.

The prawns must rank among the best in Johannesburg. A plate of 12 king prawns (R396) was served with chips and a selection of sauces.

Other menu items include the classics of Portuguese and SA-Portuguese cuisine: bacalhau, espetada com pimentas, peri-peri chicken, trinchado and prawn curry. Desserts include chocolate mousse and crème caramel.

The service, initially a little slow, was on the whole knowledgeable and efficient. The wine list offers a good selection of Portuguese and South African wines. We enjoyed a bottle of Dao Duque de Viseu white (R149), a fine foil to the seafood.

The decor hasn't changed in years, the main features being a collection of thousands of ties hanging from the rafters, and an assortment of commendations from grateful associates, ranging from the police to SA Breweries.

There is nothing pretentious about Parreirinha, but you won't find better South African Portuguese food anywhere in Johannesburg. Tell your mother.

• 9 6th Street, La Rochelle, Johannesburg, 0114353809