The wonder of butter making

21 June 2011 - 23:57 By Andrea Burgener
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Andre Burgener has been immersed in all things food since she took over the making of the family's lunch box sandwiches aged eight (her mom could make a mean creme brulee and a staggering souffle, but could never butter the bread all the way to the edges.

BUTTER UNWRAPPED

How easy is it to make your own butter? Laughably. Please try this, with or without offspring; it's quick, foolproof, and has that alchemical thrill aspect to it which makes you feel incredibly clever.

All you need is some good fresh cream and 10 minutes or so. Use anything from 250ml to 500ml the first time. Whip cream using a stick whisk, a Kenwood or even a manual beater if you're feeling strong (some sources suggest shaking the cream in a jar but, trust me, this is for masochists only).

Continue well past the firm whipped stage and into the worrying curdled-looking stage. Keep going, and soon a pale smooth mass will separate from the buttermilk (which you should keep for making pancakes). Knead butter while running under cold water for a while, to remove the excess buttermilk.

Note: home butter will be softer than the shop sort as it is hard to remove as much liquid; don't use for frying as it will spit.

FOOD HEROES

So indifferent are the offerings in most of the joints on Parkhurst's eating strip that I think it must be deliberate. Impossible, surely, to be so middle-of-the-road by accident.

Are they perhaps members of a secret Guild-of-Mediocrity, wearing blazers when they meet, that proclaim on the pockets "in tramezzini veritas"? Who knows.

At least there are a few saviours. Nice Restaurant is one such haven, but my more recent love is 4th Avenue Coffee Roasters. A tiny cube of a place, it offers the charm, personality and unwavering attention to detail that seems to have gone AWOL in this city's food selling scene.

The coffee is wondrous (and used by many top restaurants in the city). Everything I've had from the thankfully short menu has been brilliant: stellar egg dishes, a sublime toasted chicken mayo that's so unctuous it should be renamed croque poulet, super-fresh cakes and white-chocolate babychinos that have the mommies fighting their wee bairns for a sip. The Cobbles Centre, 4th Avenue, Parkhurst, 082-378-2109.

COOKING THE MAGS

Though the demise last year of the mighty Gourmet Magazine is certainly something to be mourned, I've been so impressed with the ever improving Bon Appetit, that it's almost made up for the loss.

And from last month, it's even better: fashion's loss is the food world's gain, as Conde Nast gets suave former GQ style editor Adam Rapoport into the editor's seat. Rapoport has cheek, charm and suss in abundance, and, of course, a healthily obsessive approach to good eating.

If you can't run to regular purchase of the magazine itself, the website comes a good second: check out www.bonappetit.com

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