In the dramatically lit basement of the renovated Turbine Hall, two of India's top fashion designers presented their collections on Monday night.

Tightly packed in the coveted front row sat the sartorially challenged former minister in the presidency, Essop Pahad, Minister of Public Enterprises Barbara Hogan, her partner, Ahmed Kathrada, the Indian Minister of Commerce and Industry, Anand Sharma and computer tycoon Ajay Gupta.

The lasting impression of Manish Malhotra's latest couture collection, "Celebration", which was the first on stage, is of warm colours and rich fabrics. Each garment was more visually satisfying and desirable than the next. To own a Malhotra design is to feel silk and velvet textures against your skin.

The hues, textures, antique brocades, thread work and zardose tell the story of India's rich culture from the Mughal period to the Rajasthan royalty.

According to the pamphlet issued on the evening, Malhotra is a hot favourite when it comes to dressing Bollywood stars. He has designed clothes for more than 1000 movies, and he made a classic sari for Indian actress Shilpa Shetty's engagement.

Interestingly his designs didn't stray too far from traditional Indian clothes. On show were saris, punjabis, shararas and interpretations of these classics.

Satya Paul's collection "Zen, Zest, Zip, Zap and Zing" , on the other hand, did move away from tradition. The label is well known for its saris and bridal wear, as well as fusion and western clothing.

On show were very short dresses. So very short that a demurely dressed woman in the front row giggled nervously and then held tightly to her partner's arm as barely-covered bottoms went by.

The label's signature prints and vivid colours were also a departure from traditional Indian wear. Western-styled evening gowns were made in vividly coloured, graphic printed silk. The colours are reminiscent of 1960's tie-dye fashions and Satya Paul's bold designs are a contemporary interpretation of the hippy look.

It wasn't all colourful prints though - designs in bold shades of white also featured prominently.

Showing the clothes were top Indian models, some local models, and three Miss India winners, none of whom - interestingly - were overly thin.

The fashion show was part of the India Show, a platform for trade and investment dialogue that took place in Johannesburg this week.

Coincidentally, 2010 also marks the 150th anniversary of the arrival of the first indentured Indians in South Africa.