The Chef: David Higgs
Shantini Naidoo speaks to the award-winning executive chef who has moved from Rust en Vrede in Stellenbosch to the Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel in Sandton's CBD.
WHO MOVES FROM CAPE TOWN TO JOHANNESBURG?
(Laughs) I got a great opportunity here. Being a chef is so much more than cooking, it is about conceptualising spaces. It is about making a restaurant, not a menu. Cape Town has two six-month periods, but Joburg is so vibrant, it lives all year round ... and that is the attraction of living here.
HOW BIG A CHANGE IS IT?
In Cape Town I had a house in the vineyards and my nearest neighbour was a few kilometres away. Now I live in a three-storey Tudor-style complex on Grayston Drive. I love it, it is different but very cool... no traffic to work.
DO YOU THINK JOHANNESBURGERS HAVE DECENT RESTAURANT CHOICES?
I think the level of dining in the Cape versus Joburg is very, very different. The everyday restaurants in Joburg are excellent. Food is nicely presented and tasty. The variety and choice of meat is incredible. In terms of finer dining, though, there is clearly a void.
WHICH ARE YOUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS IN SOUTH AFRICA?
I haven't been to enough in Joburg to have a favourite yet, but HQ restaurant in Sandton is fantastic. In Cape Town I support Caveau Wine Bar & Deli. They do interesting food combinations and the smaller portions mean you can have a great tapas-style experience.
The Test Kitchen in Cape Town is phenomenal. The wine pairing is interesting, there's a great vibe and the industrial theme is nice. I'm also a fan of chef George Jardine (of Jordan restaurant). He cooks from the heart and very few people pull that off with such ease. It is honest food.
WHAT DO YOU COOK FOR YOURSELF OR YOUR FAVOURITE PEOPLE?
My style is relaxed, modern comfort food. I cater for guests in a hotel now, so we can't be too showy. I like to do twists on old classics using unusual cuts of meat that fill you up. Chefs loved to be cooked for, so home-cooked meals are great - even if the meat and vegetables are overcooked. I always end up cooking when I'm invited out. I'm not a great socialiser (unless I've had a few drinks) so I always find the kitchen first.
WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO EAT?
Gnocchi, risotto, all types of Italian food. Simple meals that focus on an ingredient, such as an aged balsamic, are beautiful.
WHAT ARE YOUR SIGNATURE DISHES AT THE RADISSON?
I don't believe in signature dishes and my menus change often.
WHAT DO YOU THINK OF MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY?
Everything has its place. Nobody in this country is qualified to do it. The chefs who do it well have big teams, up to 25 people in the kitchen. I like to use elements of molecular gastronomy, but you won't necessarily see something explode on your plate. There are hints you may not even notice - I may have a foam, but that won't be a course on its own.
THEME FOR THE RADISSON?
Honest, filling food that gives diners their money's worth.
IS SUSTAINABILITY REALISTIC?
Sustainability takes an effort if you want your costs to be low. The hotel is a business at the end of the day. I try to be careful and we try to buy local.
In a Flash
SA WINE: I'm a Pinot fan. I recently re-tried the Meerlust Pinot. It is one of our best.
TAKE-OUT: Sure. Anything is fine. I don't pretend to be poncy. Our soccer team is playing tonight and I'll probably grab McDonald's on the way there. I love Chinese, Thai and Indian food.
INGREDIENT: Lemons and limes.
GADGET: My Thermomix. It is a blender that heats food at the same time.
MEAT-FREE MONDAY: Ja, I like it. I like cooking with vegetables.
IF I WASN'T A CHEF I'D BE: A rally driver.
SAUCE: Salsa and dressings with coriander.
GETAWAY: An island where I'm forced to do nothing.
DON'T TOUCH: Nothing is off limits.
FOIE GRAS: I love the sh*t but I won't put it on a menu.

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