If it's good enough for Oscar-winners and knights, the informal bosom of the shacklands is good enough for Nancy Richards and friends

BUYISWA Tonono is a party girl. She loves to sing - and boy can she dance. Arms pumping on either side of her gyrating body, she broke into the circle of women with a chorus of "Wa thint' abafazi wa thint' imbokodo! (You strike a woman, you strike a rock)" and, within seconds, a swaying collection of sisters followed. We were all there to celebrate the start of women's month. There couldn't be a more embracing place to do it than Makazi's (it means Aunty's) guesthouse at the Indlovu (meaning strength) project in Monwabisi Park, Khayelitsha, which, if Xhosa is not your mother tongue, means New Home.

The good thing about going away with a group of girlfriends is that, if you've forgotten something, someone else will have it. Bags were packed with extra socks, fleecy pyjamas and hot water bottles. This was, after all, a Cape winter weekend in a township and we weren't taking chances on the cold. But no worries. As if the bear-hug welcomes weren't warm enough, an inventive wood-burning stove in the corner - a remodelled gas canister fitted with a door and welded chimney pipe - had us quickly snug and steaming like the isonka pot bread.

The last time I stayed at Makazi's, it burnt down a month later - these things happen in informal settlements. I didn't want to be jinxing it a second time, but they'd rebuilt it, rock solid this time, twice the size and decorated in second-time-around, irresistible eco-tshwe-tshwe style. The coffee table is a pile of builder's palettes, the light fitting above it is a cunning chandelier of painted buckets, and a deliberately exposed, glassed section shows the nappy liner sand bag construction of the walls. This is organic design at its most creative.

Now we were six, the guest house sleeps 10 and because of the women's celebration the next day, Gogo the sangoma, trustee of the Indlovu project, had come through to stay as well. Settled on the sofa surrounded by braided cushions, wrapped in her traditional ibayi cloth, wrists braceleted with beads and skin, she told us stories of her calling. Like disciples, we sat rapt at her feet. Hazel Bartman, Makazi's manager, is also Gogo's daughter and, together with Buyiswa, she'd prepared us a feast, mainly vegetarian by request, and the table was spread with bean stew, chilli cabbage, sweet potato mash, rice, chicken bredie, steamed bread and butter in a recycled tuna can.

We should have left the hot-water bottles at home, because each of the bunk beds upstairs had one slipped between the crisp sheets and feather duvets, under which we slept like royalty.

A township wakes with roosters, barking dogs, chattering people, chuddering cars and music. To this, add the sound of women singing. After breakfast on the balcony, against a Table-Mountain-and-shack backdrop, we gathered for the women's ceremony in the next-door community centre. Another gas canister stove took the chill off the concrete floor, but the heat of so many female bodies made it redundant. With sung prayers and her stick, Gogo, aka Makhosi Athobile (her sangoma name) aka Nomluleki Bartman (her married name) aka Sophie Bartman (her "slave" name) got the celebrations going. Sibongile Mafilika, the powerfully voiced pastor's wife, took over as MC; Suraya Abrahams quoted from the Qur'an; Vuyo Plaatjies, wife of another project trustee, Dizu of the percussion ensemble Amampondo, read a poem; and everyone cheered the presence of the new, female, ward councillor. Individual testimonies were shared, songs were sung, breasts of all colours heaved in unison with emotion - and Buyiswa, original Makazi mama and project manager, got the party back on the floor to dance. - © Nancy Richards

WHERE IT IS: About half an hour from the Cape Town city centre, take the N2, Mew Way turn-off. Turn right over the motorway bridge and head straight on down Mew Way, over the Steve Biko Road intersection. After a few metres, you'll see the Indlovu signboard to the right. Alternatively, search GoogleMaps, it's there.

WHY GO THERE: If not just for the township experience, to witness a sustainable tourism project that has style, edge and genuine eco-credentials.

WHAT THEY OFFER: Stay over at Makazi's with breakfast and dinner or book for lunch or just a tea and homemade muffin visit. The projects community hall has conference facilities as well as a youth centre, clinic and craft workshop. There's volunteer backpacker accommodation for longer stays, a creche, pre-primary school, soup kitchen and guided walks around the township. The Indlovu singers and young dancers also offer entertainment.

ACCOMMODATION: Makazi's sleeps 10: six bunks, two singles and a double bed, all en suite. The cost is R250 a head for dinner, bed and breakfast. Visit www.makazis.co.za or phone 021 657 1026 for more information.

AND THE FOOD: A Makazi's cook book is in progress. It's best to enjoy their traditional meals, but you can order in advance, according to preference.

FAMOUS FACES: Oscar-winning actress Halle Berry, who is in Cape Town to shoot a movie, lunched at Indlovu's community hall recently, catered by Makazi's. After everyone and their aunty and brother had had their picture taken with her on their cellphone, Gogo renamed Berry Thandeka - "the one whom everyone loves". The actress and her cast-and-crew entourage were entertained by a troupe of young traditional dancers and designer Vuyo Plaatjies presented Berry with a hand-made doll.

Makazi's is the income-generating wing of the Indlovu community project, an initiative of the Shaster Foundation. The guesthouse was built, and rebuilt after a fire, with a donation from Sir Ian Mckellan, also in Cape Town recently for a production of Waiting for Godot. www.shaster.org.za