Richard Holmes happily maroons himself on the West Coast

FREEDOM. It's something we all seek, but rarely find. Jonathan Franzen wrote it, Nelson Mandela walked to it, and I think I've found it. Or, rather, him: he's serving beers behind the bar at one of my favourite low-key getaways.

With A-framed wood and canvas tents within spitting distance of the Atlantic, the Robinson Crusoe-style Beach Camp in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve is about as seafront as they come.

It has a laid-back backpacker feel, but with the privacy of double rooms under cosy canvas.

Some travellers would pay thousands for a location like this, but you do have to put up with a little rusticity. Flanked by the sea on one side and coastal fynbos on the other there isn't even a grid to be off, so don't expect electricity. Or flush toilets, for that matter. it's composting, follow-the-instructions-or-else commodes for those midnight dashes.

And no, en-suite is not an option. But if that's a problem, this laid-back plek is probably not your cup of OBS anyway.

There's a charming slap-dash style in the beach bar, with its deckchairs hammered together from wood and shade cloth. Assorted flotsam (or is it jetsam?) adorns the walls, and a beaten guitar lies in the corner begging for a mildly tipsy traveller to pluck up Stairway to Heaven. Fishing buoys float on the ceiling and shell chandeliers tinkle in the breezes. Almost everything is built of heavy wood . perhaps so it won't blow away.

This is the West Coast after all, so when I say breezes I mean the summer southeaster can wind up to a full-on tantrum. There's no point cursing it, though, and behind the shade cloth and fishing nets it's perfectly sheltered. In the crystal-clear night sky, Orion keeps me company as the moonlight ripples towards shore. Every 15 seconds, the beam of Cape Columbine lighthouse waves a greeting to ships arriving from the north.

This is the first lighthouse they'll have sighted since Europe and will no doubt be glad to avoid being cast ashore on the jagged points of Castle Rock. Myself, if I were ever looking for a spot to be marooned where the Twitterati can't find me. this would be it. - © Richard Holmes

IF YOU GO

WHERE IT IS:

The Beach Camp is in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, about 2km outside Paternoster.

WHY GO THERE:

To live out your castaway fantasies in a driftwood hideaway where 3G and deadlines cannot reach. Spend lazy days staring out at the sparkling (but freezing) Atlantic, reading that long-awaited book, writing that long-awaited book or trying your hand at the addictive over-sized catapult. More adventurous types can opt for sea kayaking and fishing off the kelp beds, or walking in the reserve.

WHAT IT OFFERS:

The four A-frame wooden huts offer the best views, but if you're on a tight budget there are also six comfortable dome tents. Both tents and A-frames have two single beds apiece. Sheets and pillowcases are provided, but either bring your own duvet or hire bedding for a few extra rands.

WHAT IT'S LIKE:

Rustic and loveably so. If your first instinct is to unpack your hairdryer, you'd probably do better at a B&B in Paternoster. There's no electricity at The Beach Camp, so it's paraffin lamps at night and gas geysers for your morning shower. Here's your chance to do without all the frills of modern life and go back to basics for the weekend: just you, a canvas bedroom and those sea views.

AND THE FOOD:

Mostly self-catering. There's a fully equipped kitchen tent and a sociable braai area with an armoury of grids and tools, or the staff can prepare simple dinners if you order in advance. However, Paternoster's great restaurants are a short drive away.

RATES:

Two sleeper A-Frames and dome tents cost R560 and R448 per night respectively. You can also hire out the whole camp (up to 23 people) for R6160 per night. Prices valid until May 2011.

GETTING THERE:

From Cape Town, follow the R27 north along the West Coast. Take the Vredenburg turn-off and continue straight through town to Paternoster. At the four-way stop, turn left at the Beach Camp sign. Pass the hotel and follow the winding road through town. At the next stop street, turn right and follow the road (which becomes good gravel) to the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve gate and another 1km on to The Beach Camp.

CONTACT:

Visit www.beachcamp.co.za, call 0829262267 or e-mail info@ratrace.co.za. For more on the village, visit www.paternoster.info or call 0227522323.