When darkness falls in Vermaaklikheid it's thick and inky enough to taste

THE instructions were infallible. Turn off the N2 just after Heidelberg (in the Cape) drift along 30km of dirt roads, down a long smooth dip and the lights of Vermaaklikheid will wink their welcome.

Except it wasn't quite like that. Vermaaklikheid is not large enough to be called a village. More than a few of its scattered, characteristic whitewash-and-thatch cottages are lit only by soft, flickering candlelight - no electricity. And should you arrive after 10pm - after missing the turnoff, taking a lengthy detour to Riversdale, escaping fisticuffs with some local youth at a petrol station and dodging scorpions on the rocky road - if you blink, you'll miss it.

Luckily, a puncture slowed us right down. Changing tyres in the inky dark of the main road through Vermaaklikheid, with starry heavens unfurling into eternity above, is something everyone should do at least once in a lifetime.

There was little more to do that night but eat and drink, stretch out to contemplate the skies and dream in uncanny silence. Dawn, heralded by enthusiastic cockerels and other bird species, meant the delights of Vermaaklikheid could finally be seen, not just heard. All dirt lanes, crumbling cottages and sunny charm, it's one of those rare places that has got smaller over the years. There are wagon ruts cut into the limestone and varying tales of how it all began.

Local resident Date Beukes, 71, remembers how every bit of land used to be cultivated; locals grew vegetables and the sweetest hanepoort grapes in the country and hunted buck for meat. The school was full. People brewed some mean witblitz and stored their perishables in patatgatte dug into kitchen floors.

But slowly the farms were subdivided and the children moved away. Rooikrans bush crept over disused fields (some is now being cleared thanks to forward-thinking owners and the Duiwenhoks Conservancy). There are said to be only 50 or so full-time families left - although a mission school has reopened, where pupils play chess and mock court cases are held to determine punishment for transgressions.

Discerning city slickers have snapped up many choice properties and while some owners still farm (one retiree breeds rare goats and racing pigeons), leisure has become the main activity.

This is centred on the pristine Duiwenhoks, a deliciously clean, deep river with reed- and rock-fringed banks, as well as the odd perfect beach, that curls down to greet the sea 10km further on at the estuary at Puntjie.

Local teens kissed and canoodled in the warm shallows; little boys bolted down the dusty track in search of a swim. We paddled canoes a little way down the Duiwenhoks' gentle length until we happened upon the perfect riverside Riviera: a sandy beach with no footprints; just two small statues of a baboon and seal standing guard.

Tumbling into the cool depths was the only thing left to do. Bobbing up again, the water changes colour from dark amber to deep ruby red, then sun-kissed iced tea. Something like a sweet sunrise as dusk turns to dawn. - © Janine Stephen

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: From Cape Town, either turn right on to the R322 to Witsand just before Heidelberg, then turn first left on to a gravel road and follow the signs from there, or take the turn-off about 10km after Heidelberg and follow the signs. From George, go via Riversdale. That turn-off says Vermaaklikheid and the route is sign-posted.

WHAT IT HAS: Fishing, canoeing, swimming. A small store. A restaurant, Duiwenshoks (028 713 2255), that offers fresh seafood, caught daily. The Mermaid's Purse - two deep-fried, crumbed calamari steaks stuffed with smoked mussels, shrimp and locally made cheese - should fill you up. Open Wednesday to Sunday.

ON THE WAY: The area between Hermanus and Riversdale boasts more blue cranes than anywhere else in the country, and Vermaaklikheid is as good a place as any to spot our threatened national bird. As a friend said after passing a gathering: "That was at least 50c worth."

WHAT TO PACK: A torch could be useful. Plus a spare tyre or three.

NEED TO KNOW: The good people at Hi Way Bande, 16 Church Street, Riversdale, can fix your flat tyre. 028 713 2211. Nature rules: no speeding or water sports allowed on the river.

WHERE TO STAY: For a tiny dorp, there's a choice. Try River Magic, a pet-friendly riverside haven with three cottages sleeping from six to 12 people. From R170 per person per night, but check minimum rates and stays. Paddasang River Farm looks relaxed and appealing and rates start at R350 per person per night. Couples will love the secluded, non-electrified boathouse on Oshoek River Farm (from R600 per night); two larger accommodations with all the mod-cons, sleeping from seven to 12 people, are also available from R1500-R2000 per night.

CONTACT: River Magic: 021 701 3735, www.vermaaklikheid.co.za; Paddasang: mail info@habits.co.za; Oshoek: email ejborain@iafrica.com or visit www.capestay.co.za/oshoekriverfarm.