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Sat May 26 03:48:30 SAST 2012

Take a sho't left

Refilwe Boikanyo & Lebohang Mashiloane | 14 August, 2011 03:30

Refilwe Boikanyo and Lebohang Mashiloane get a taste of the best of South Africa's beauty during a Sho't Left overland truck holiday

FROM REFILWE BOIKANYO'S DIARY:

WHILE driving on the winding road leading to Lesedi Cultural Village, it finally struck me that I was about to embark on a week-long road trip with complete strangers - a group of 16 STA travel competition winners. But with heaps of deadlines at work, I spend the first night burning the midnight oil while my travel companions break the ice on the dance floor at Lesedi Cultural Village.

. JUNE 9

In the North West: Kingdom of the White Lions Volunteer project

I feel socially awkward as I walk through the dining hall of Lesedi. Each winner has brought a couple of friends with them. Marietta, our guide, welcomes me. As we tuck into breakfast, she introduces me to the other travellers, before we set off to the Kingdom of the White Lion, 5km from Lesedi and a few minutes away from my parents' home. It's on a secret track and not open to the public, so I forgive myself for not knowing about it before today.

The Kingdom is owned by legendary Lion Whisperer, Kevin Richardson, who is famous for the feature film White Lion- Home is a Journey. It is home to lions - including rare white lions, some of whom featured in the film - brown and spotted hyena, black leopard, jaguar and numerous antelope species. In teams of five, we join three energetic cubs - a lion, leopard and hyena - on a 20-minute play date. Playtime over, it's time to work. Only volunteers are allowed at the park, so we all have to tidy up the lions' den afterwards.

. JUNE 11

To Mpumalanga: Blyde River Canyon

Today is a day of firsts: our first long drive, my first time pitching a tent and the first fight of our journey. Our voyage begins with most of our male companions guzzling beer at a speed of more than two bottles per hour, resulting in more pitstops than progress. At first I don't mind - each stop is a photo op. I pose in front of signs of the quaint small towns and pop into stores and window shop. But then I hear we are running two hours late for our date with the three sisters at the Blyde River Canyon. So after a picnic along a highway near Lydenberg, we all agree to make no more stops and make it to the canyon, the world's third largest, by sunset.

By the time it is twilight we have pitched our tents and eaten supper by a fire, toasted marshmallows and engaged in a series of light conversations. Then someone starts on politics.

"Why do you think people still vote for the ANC?" is the question directed at me. I give the most diplomatic response I can think of, neither endorsing nor rejecting any party. One of the group disagrees with my answer but instead of giving a rebuttal, pushes me on the forehead and declares that I was a retard. I am furious but don't know what to do. How does one reason with a belligerent idiot? His friends pull him away from me before I can react. I retire to my tent and thinkabout it, concluding eventually that even though his actions are inappropriate, different opinions, personalities and values are all part of travelling with strangers.

. JUNE 12

Kruger National Park

After a warm shower I am ready to leave both the campsite and the argument of the night before. Today our travels take us to the Kruger National Park, via the Bourke's Luck Potholes and God's Window. It is cold and misty and at God's Window the curtains are closed. We don't see the views that we'd heard so much about but it was worth trying. Seeing the potholes, waterfalls and climbing rocks at Bourke's Luck makes up for the disappointment. The rest of the day is spent at the Kruger National Park, where we spot an assortment of animals, some of which I never knew existed (such as the genet) from our open game vehicle. In the evening we have an authentic Afrikaans potjiekos, prepared by our guide, Marietta. Exhausted and well fed, I retire to my tent and am lulled to sleep by the sound of crickets and revelry.

. JUNE 13

South to Swaziland

We are greeted by a scenic sunrise as we leave Kruger. Then we spot a crash of rhinos, a journey of giraffes and a herd of elephants with their babies in tow, and a majestic leopard sitting in a tree making our early wake-up even more worthwhile. Hours later I say goodbye to my cellphone reception as we drive into grassy, green, hilly Swaziland. We eat quickly, set up our village of tents and equip ourselves for a safari through the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. This time our game-viewing vehicles are horses. Most of us are novice riders, so we begin by walking. We watch hippos basking by a lake and zebra grazing on the verdant hills. During our safari, we gradually increase the pace from a walk to a trot and with each step our bond with our horses is strengthened. We noted how each horse has its own personality. My horse is the foodie, stopping whenever he could to munch enthusiastically on the freshest patch of grass. By the end of afternoon our horses are more than a mode of transport - they are our friends.

. JUNE 14

Swaziland to St Lucia

Having spent most of the previous day driving to Swaziland, we request a visit to a flea market or a stopover in one of the towns before leaving the country. Our wish is granted when we pause at Swazi Candle Market, an indoor-outdoor market that started as an upliftment programme to create employment for local people. I walk into one of the workshops and watch a craftsman mould wax into a rhinoceros-shaped candle.

One border, three pitstops and several hours later, we arrive in balmy St Lucia on the KZN north coast. I can hardly contain my enthusiasm when I see Shonalanga guest Lodge. In the evening we dress up and head across to the Ocean Sizzler restaurant and eat more than we should. After supper I retire to my room and enjoy simple luxuries - bed, bath and TV. My travel companions end up in a local karaoke bar where they do some copious quaffing and, inevitably, some loud singing.

. JUNE 15

St Lucia

We hire bicycles and explore the town, riding down its one main road lined with restaurants and gaudy shops selling beachwear and Zulu crafts and head to Jabulani Beach. Some of my companions spend more time kissing the tar than cycling. I forget it is winter as I laze on the empty beach, re-charging my body for the long journey and sightseeing ahead. While I splash on the shore and walk on the white sands some of my other travel companions are at Cape Vidal discovering what lurks beneath the ocean's surface.

. JUNE 16

St Lucia to Durban

Today packing my bag felt like a duty rather than a delight. My days of living out of a suitcase, settling in different locations and going on unpredictable adventures came to an untimely end. In Durban I give my seat - and tent - to my colleague Lebo.

FROM LEBOHANG MASHILOANE'S DIARY:

. JUNE 17

East London/Port St Johns

South from Durban, we travel to the Eastern Cape and through the heartland of the Xhosa people en route to The Pont campsite in Port St Johns, between the Umzimvubu River and Mount Thesiger. Once settled, a few of us decide to hang out at Jungle Monkey Backpackers overlooking the beach. The night ends with a jam session on drums before we take a 13km walk back to The Pont after getting lost.

. JUNE 18

East London area

We start the morning at the Nelson Mandela Museum, getting inspired by the old man's history. The day is nearly spoilt as we come out of the museum full of positive vibes only to discover the spare wheels on our truck have been stolen. This doesn't dampen our spirits too much and we move along swiftly through the landscape of the former homeland, Transkei, to Khaya La Bantu, an authentic Xhosa village. On arrival, a red carpet is laid out for us and the friendly villagers break into a welcoming song. So moved by the experience is the group, we break into the national anthem and everyone joins in for what becomes a truly South African moment. Later 95-year-old Mama Tofu, a walking Xhosa library who could well pass for 60, takes us through the history of the Xhosa people. We are grouped according to gender, males learning about the rite of passage for young Xhosa men, females being taught about womanhood. This is followed by traditional beer tasting before we retire to our huts for the night.

. JUNE 19

Addo Elephant National Park

Although famous for its elephants, Addo is home to all sorts of wild animals. We pitch our tents at the campsites in the park and spend the afternoon on a game drive. The park was named after the Khoi word Kadouw, which they gave to a ford over the nearby Sundays River. Night falls and it gets cold so we huddle around the fire and tell ghost stories.

. JUNE 20-22

Tsisikammma

The group agrees that this has to be one of the most breathtaking places any of us have seen. Giant waves crash on the rocky shore on one side and old hardwoods map out the forest on the other, while our tents stand in the middle. Activities include hiking a portion of the Otter Trail, abseiling, scuba diving, snorkelling and boat rides. As a warm-up for the bungee jump the group opts for canopy tours at the Stormsriver Village in the Tsitsikamma Forest. The cables stretch 30m above the ground. We glide on 10 cables to platforms high in the giant trees. Then came the moment we've all been waiting for, jumping from one of the world's highest bungees at the Bloukrans River Bridge on the Garden Route. Incredible!

. JUNE 23

Oudtshoorn

In what is one of the coldest winter days yet, we take a drive over the Outeniqua Mountains into the Klein Karoo where Oudtshoorn becomes our base. We visit the Safari Ostrich Farm where we learn more about these giant birds. A few of the group are lucky enough to race the birds around a specially-built race track. Later we find ourselves negotiating our way through the darkness of the Cango Caves. These caves, situated in the Swartberg Mountain Range, have been sculpted by nature over the years and are filled with limestone formations in a wide variety of natural colours. I think they should officially be made one of the world's greatest wonders.

. JUNE 24

Cape Town

Sad day as the adventure winds down. We visit Red Hill pre-school, a Gap Adventures Foundation non-profit project that was developed to give back to the people and places that Gap visits on tours. We spend the day interacting with the kids, playing soccer and learning about their backgrounds. Later we hit Long Street for a wrap party and an impromptu awards ceremony. Some interesting awards are dished out, from "The Cutest group member" to the "Getting Lucky award". Phew!

I have spent over a week with people I've never met before, travelling the length and breadth of this lovely country,

I can't think of a better way to take time out from the Jozi rat race. Lifelong friendships have been formed and there are already talks of a reunion.

So, do yourself a favour: take a Sho't Left trip before you hit 35. - Boikanyo and Mashiloane were guests of STA Travel

  • To book a Sho't Left package, contact STA Travel, tel: 0861 781 781 or visit www.statravel.co.za.

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