In the port of Southampton, the famous red-and-black funnel of the Cunard Line towered above all other ships. Cunard. . . the name alone conjures up vivid images of a great ocean liner powering her way through the waves. My excitement mounted as I got my first view of the Queen Victoria .
Queen Victoria is a medium-sized cruise ship carrying about 2000 passengers. My wife and I had selected her as our ship of choice because, on previous cruises, we had found the larger, 4000-passenger ships with rock-climbing walls and ice rinks were not to our taste .
We were allocated a Princess Suite and were welcomed into our stateroom by Tom, our friendly steward, who would be at our beck and call for the next 13 days. He presented us with chilled French Champagne and plump English strawberries as he talked about the suite's facilities.
Once we had unpacked, it was time to explore the Queen Victoria. Her 12 passenger decks span her 294m length and it took us an hour to familiarise ourselves with the layout. It was quickly evident that this was a classic ocean liner offering the very best of Cunard's heritage. The elegant public rooms, many on a large scale, are luxuriously endowed with rich wood panelling, intricate mosaics, gleaming chandeliers and cool marbles.
The cruise itinerary allowed three full days at sea before our first port of call. This was a time to unwind and relax. A visit to the Royal Spa was high on our list of priorities and we were not disappointed. We were welcomed in the familiar South African accent, only to discover that, in addition to most of the Royal Spa staff being from South Africa, more than 40 South Africans are working on the Queen Victoria - as photographers, shop assistants and serving in the restaurants.
The spa is located high up on deck nine, and being pampered to the gentle roll of the ship while watching the passing sea was the ideal way to unwind.
The ship's daily newspaper tells guests about the activities taking place on board for the next 24 hours. We were free to participate in any or just spend time as we wished - lazing around the pools, watching a movie in our stateroom or relaxing on our private balcony. The daily bingo sessions were well attended, as were the dancing lessons, at which people could practise for the nightly dances or balls in the Queen's Lounge.
The Queen Victoria offers dining in four restaurants. There is a dining room and lounge for the exclusive use of guests in the Princess Suites, and another for those in the Queens Suites.
Other passengers have their meals in the Britannia Restaurant, a venue inspired by the elegant Golden Arrow boat train that once linked London and Paris. The Lido offers a 24-hour buffet service, and meals may be ordered in staterooms at any time at no charge.
The Golden Lion pub proved to be one of the most popular venues, with nightly singalongs, competitions and karaoke sessions all well supported.
We watched a spectacular song-and-dance show in the Royal Court Theatre. The theatre, designed by the noted architect Frank Matcham, is the first at sea to have West End-styled boxes.
Our first port of call was Gibraltar. Unfortunately, the Rock was under cloud and our English passengers seemed interested only in buying large quantities of duty-free alcohol. The call was a brief six hours and we were soon on our way to Palma, Majorca. Palma is a lively tourist city, with an exciting seafront that comes alive after dark, when the holidaymakers stream into the bars and nightclubs.
We decided to do an island tour. The scenery was spectacular, with pine-covered mountains and hills rising steeply from the ocean. Secluded beaches in small resorts sported the hideaway holiday homes of celebrities such as Richard Branson, Claudia Schiffer and Michael Schumacher. A welcome break allowed us to sample the tapas and wines of Majorca.
The next day we docked in Ajaccio, Corsica, but chose to remain on board as the weather had turned inclement.
The following dawn saw us glide into Civitavecchia, the port of Rome. Other cruise ships and ferries were following us and a fleet of tour buses was lined up on the quayside, with most passengers heading for Rome. We opted instead to visit the walled city of Tuscania, some 35km away. On the drive through the Etruscan countryside, we saw vineyards and olive trees stretching over the hills. The quaint hillside and walled town of Tuscania, developed in medieval times with its magnificent walls, ramparts and churches, offered a look back at how country life was centuries ago.
The master of the Queen Victoria, captain Ian McNaught, had somehow heard of my love of ships and invited me to visit the bridge, which was an eye-opener as he explained the workings of the ship. The latest cruise ships no longer have propellers but pods, which allow the ship to berth or undock without the assistance of tugs.
The captain's cocktail party is always a highlight of any cruise and we were treated to two, where champagne flowed and prawns were served from ice sculptures.
We were disappointed as we berthed the following morning in Monte Carlo, which was shrouded in cloud as the rain poured down. By late morning, the weather had lifted and we joined a tour, which visited the environs of the Royal Palace, the home of the Grimaldi family, which has ruled the principality since 1297. Nearby is the famous Oceanographic Museum, which is the repository for the famous marine biologist Jacques-Yves-Cousteau's original equipment. Then a solemn moment as we entered the cathedral to view the last resting places of Princess Grace and Prince Rainier. A highlight of the visit was the famous Monte Carlo Casino, linked to the equally stunningly decorated Opera House. Also on the Place du Casino is the noted Hôtel de Paris, with its American Bar which is advertised as playing host to the elite of the elite. Monaco smells of extreme wealth, with locals riding around in Rolls Royce convertibles and multi-million-dollar cars that most people can only dream of. Shopping is prohibitively expensive - a cotton t-shirt costs à70 (about R770) - and beyond the means of most in our group.
Our final port of call was Barcelona, where a dramatic change took place following its hosting of the Olympic Games in 1992. Barcelona has more instances of avant-garde architecture than any other city in the world. Architect Antoni Gaudí left his mark on Barcelona, with works that include the distinctive Sagrada Família, a Roman Catholic church begun in 1882, which is still under construction and reliant on donations for its completion, which could take another 50 years.
Our ports of call completed, we relaxed into the routine of cruising for the next three days. On the second-last day, the ship's shops had a half-price sale on certain merchandise and souvenirs. It seemed most passengers kept their shopping for this, and at times it was impossible to get near the goods as passengers crowded the various stores and tables.
As the cruise drew to a close, I thought back on what I had read a few weeks before embarking, that Cunard had been voted the best cruise line by 17000 participants on the website www.cruiseuk.com. Having sailed on a variety of cruise ships, I can vouch that Cunard and Queen Victoria certainly live up to this award, and I look forward to seeing the Queen Elizabeth when she enters service next year. The cruising public must also agree, as the maiden cruise on the Queen Elizabeth sold out in 28 minutes.
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