Shelley Seid takes time out in the Midlands to do as little as possible, apart from some Meander shopping

TWENTY-SIX years ago a handful of artists, potters and crafters living in the Natal countryside got together to talk about the possibility of pooling resources and holding a "rolling exhibition" where the public would be invited to come and view - and purchase - their work.

The meeting, held at Caversham Mill, the home and studio of potter Ian Glenny, marked the start of the Midlands Meander.

Caversham Mill, now a restaurant and self-catering four-star accommodation, is where I chose to begin a restful weekend away, wanting no more than good food, comfortable accommodation and the odd bit of shopping.

The mill itself, built 160-odd years ago, was mostly washed away in 1987, but the ruins are visible from the open, airy restaurant that sits on the bank of the Lions River.

We were more interested in looking out at the charming little waterfall and down at our plates, filled with the likes of fresh Midlands trout. It's not the place for a quick meal; the pace of the countryside, the gentle hills, the occasional riders trotting over the little bridge, slows time to a welcome snail's pace.

A bottle of local wine and a decadent chocolate pudding later, we booked into our self-catering unit, one of three wood-and-iron cottages built as mill manager's houses at the turn of the last century.

They are delightful, mostly because no one has tinkered with their authenticity. A room has been converted into a bathroom, a kitchen has been added and the veranda enclosed, but the floors and walls are the original Oregon pine, much of the furniture is of the period and the feel is comfortable and homely.

We sat through an afternoon storm, listening to the rain and looking out at the countless old oak trees, and felt absolutely no need to go anywhere or do anything.

Later, when the rain had stopped, I was dragged out for a walk around the lawns - they scream out for your backside on a blanket and a picnic basket - and down to the river where, on a good day, you can swim or ride in a tube.

It's as mellow an atmosphere as you are likely to get. Not even Pinky, the overweight, foraging bushpig, could upset my state of Zen-like calm. We slept like proverbial logs and left, after a hearty breakfast in the restaurant, for the obligatory bit of retail therapy.

While the Midlands Meander could no doubt be classed as the longest outdoor shopping mall - more than 80km and stretching from Maritzburg to Mooi River - it is also a perfect venue for the most committed of Iron Men to hike, bike, fish, climb, and generally work up a sweat.

And littered as it is with wedding venues, conference centres, health hydros, B&Bs and the best and worst of restaurants, it is a miracle that the Midlands still manages to reek of quiet, country life and that the birds are still willing to sing.

But it does, and they are.

WHERE IT IS: In the heart of the Midlands Meander, about one-and-a-half hours from Durban.

WHY GO THERE: To recharge the batteries.

WHAT IT HAS: Three very private self-catering cottages, a manor house, a restaurant, gorgeous gardens, direct access to the river, a swimming pool and a kiddies' play area.

WHERE TO EAT: At its delightful restaurant overlooking the Lions River waterfall - but make a booking - it's very popular. There is an endless variety of coffee shops and restaurants in the area. The Cooking Bear and La Lampara are highly recommended.

WHAT TO SEE IN THE AREA: Directly next door is Ardmore Ceramics which, aside from a studio, has the impressive Bonnie Ntshalintshali Museum housing three distinct collections of their work. Further on, off the R103, is Swisslands Cheese, which produces goats' cheese - you're encouraged to sample it while communing with the goats.

RATES: Cottages are R370 per person per night while the Manor House starts at R800 a suite.

GETTING THERE: From Durban: Take the Howick/Tweedie off-ramp off the N3, turn left and at the T junction turn right to Nottingham Road. After about 7km you will see the Caversham turn-off to the right. Contact Diana and Terry Acres on 033 234 4524.