Two Turkish brothers are bringing their nation's special brand of spicy meats to Jo'burg

IBRAHIM and Burhan Demirtas opened their Burhan's Butchery in Mayfair, Johannesburg, in December. Situated on a busy corner in Church Street, in an area known for its array of Indian food shops, this is the first specialist Turkish butchery in the city. But what makes a Turkish butchery unique?

"We don't use a bandsaw," says Ibrahim dismissively. Used to cut meat, a bandsaw is a common piece of equipment in most butcheries. "The bandsaw is not wasting time but wasting (destroying) meat," he adds. "We use a cleaver."

Of course, the store is halal. They don't sell pork but do beef and lamb - the most important meats for the Turkish - and chicken, including whole, skinless birds and "chicken chops", which are cut from the birds supreme-style and then made into thin steaks.

While South Africans favour thick steaks, Turkish meat is usually minced for koftes, cut into pieces for kebabs or turned into chops. The Turkish also enjoy cooking their meat over open fires.

"Everything here is cut as the customer asks for it," says Ibrahim, so there is no pre-packed meat in the shop. "We only prepare the mince when they (customers) order it."

The brothers are particularly proud of their traditional sucuk sausages. Dried wheels hung from strings on the counter are made with skins imported from Turkey. These are stuffed with a minced beef spiced with garlic, chilli, cumin, paprika and cayenne pepper. Although smoked, the sausage is best sliced and cooked lightly in butter or oil or fried with an egg for breakfast.

I watch as Burhan makes up the Turkish classic, Adana kebabs. Using spiced mince, he takes small pieces and packs them around a wide, metal skewer. Having dipped his fingers in water, he sculpts the meat - which has a red tinge, thanks to paprika - around the stick in a long, undulating line.

"It may look easy to make but it takes skill," says Ibrahim.

The skewers are ceremoniously carried through the butchery to the braai on the pavement. The shop has gained a reputation for its grills and will grill anything bought in the shop. Once cooked, the kebabs are threaded from the skewer and put on top of a roti (from the bakery next door), covered with salad and chilli sauce, then rolled up. At R20, they are clearly popular.

The butchery also carries a small range of Turkish food products and local honey on the comb. The Turkish are famous for their fragrant honey, which is eaten from the comb for breakfast or part of a mezze with cheese.

BURHAN'S BUTCHERY

79 Church Street, Mayfair, Johannesburg

Phone 011 025 1123

Open Monday to Saturday 9am-6.30pm; Sunday 9am-4pm.