Cook and enjoy these wonders

10 August 2011 - 03:10 By Andrea Burgener
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Andre Burgener has been immersed in all things food since she took over the making of the family's lunch box sandwiches aged eight (her mom could make a mean creme brulee and a staggering souffle, but could never butter the bread all the way to the edges.

COOKING THE BOOKS

IN THE ever-growing morass of new cookbooks, it is easy to neglect those older, less groovy tomes.

One such wondrous publication is the local phenomenon Kook en Geniet, by SJA de Villiers, first published in 1951 by De Villiers after publishing houses turned her down.

Later published in English as Cook and Enjoy It, the book, copiously reprinted, has sold well over one million copies.

I find it as interesting for the recipes you'd be likely to balk at (anyone for Banana Candle Salad involving mayonnaise and glazed cherry?) as for the useful old-timers, like pumpkin fritters, waterblommetjie bredie and skilpadjies. No collection should be without this national treasure. It was republished by Human & Rousseau, R235.

GHEE UNWRAPPED

Ghee (from the Sanskrit for "bright"), aka clarified butter, was born of necessity, keeping about 20 times longer than normal butter in the Indian climate.

And it's the best cooking fat by far. It's so ridiculously simple to make that it's weird we don't use it more.

Unclarified butter contains both milk fat and milk solids, and it's these solids which burn up at fairly low temperatures (150C lower than vegetable oils).

With the solids removed, butter can be heated to well over oil temperatures, but with a taste infinitely superior.

Here's how: heat any quantity of butter in a pot on moderate-low heat, until solids rise, forming a pale yellow froth.

When froth stops bubbling, take off heat and let cool until solid. Now scoop the solids off the top. Fry your breakfast eggs in this and you'll never use oil again. The added bonus is clarified butter is far less toxic than oil (olive oil included) at high temperatures.

SWEET TALKING

Bay leaf with chocolate? I might not have been convinced if it hadn't been Nigel Slater telling me to do it. Not only is this supremely delicious and very chic, it's also quick and easy.

Bay Leaf White Chocolate Pots: for eight portions (they should be modest espresso cup sized) you'll need: 100ml milk / 3 bay leaves / seeds from one vanilla pod /250g best quality white chocolate, chopped / 250ml cream / cocoa and cinnamon for dusting.

How: Heat milk slowly with the bay leaves and vanilla until just boiling. Add chocolate and reheat on lowest heat until chocolate is just melting. Remove leaves and mix until smooth. Set aside to cool. Beat cream until thick but not stiff.

Fold into chocolate mix, pour into tiny cups and leave to set in fridge for a few hours. Dust with cinnamon and cocoa.

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