Cheers to Cranks is crying calamity

Andre Burgener has been immersed in all things food since she took over the making of the family's lunch box sandwiches aged eight (her mom could make a mean creme brulee and a staggering souffle, but could never butter the bread all the way to the edges.

COOKING THE BOOKS

BEWITCHED by the food and culture of the Ottoman world - her upbringing being close to Constantinople with the stories and cooking of her Turkish father - Silvena Rowe, chef patron of the Mayfair Hotel in London, once again seduces effortlessly.

Even if you possess cookbooks featuring these cuisines, you should get Rowe's latest brilliant offering, Orient Express.

The dishes are rich, beautiful to behold, and magical: duck and black sesame kleftiko, sumac octopus with pomegranate, honey glazed aubergine with apricot and cottage cheese.

You get the picture. These exotic wonders are quick and simple to prepare. Published by Hutchinson, 2011, R295.

DUMPLINGS UNWRAPPED

Austrian buttered bread dumplings may not be the first supper option that springs to mind, but these are so good (and easy to concoct) that I entreat you to give them a try before summer makes them unfeasible.

They are perfection in a bowl of broth (chicken, beef or vegetable base).

YOU NEED: (for dumplings for four generous bowls of broth) 50g butter / 1 medium onion finely chopped / 150g day-old good bread (sourdough and ciabatta are good) / 1 to 2 eggs, beaten / 2 to 3 tablespoons flour / salt and white pepper to taste.

HOW: Dice bread very small, or use processor to make very coarse breadcrumbs. Cook onion in the butter slowly until golden. Add bread and cook on medium-low until bread is golden-brown. Turn into bowl, add one egg and two spoons of the flour, season and mix well.

The mixture should come together when pressed, but not be too sticky. Add the second egg if too dry and crumbly, extra flour if too wet (the type of bread determines the moisture aspect).

Drop dumplings into 800ml of simmering (not crazily boiling) broth and cook for about seven minutes. Serve pronto with finely chopped parsley and Parmesan cheese over everything.

GOODBYE CRANKS

The rumours are true. The wailing you hear is not for nothing. The wondrous, glitter and porno-Barbie-doll bedecked Cranks Restaurant - Johannesburg's first and most authentic Thai, Vietnamese and Indonesian eating house - is closing shortly.

Eric Sangschloury, one of the city's most colourful restaurateurs - a classically-trained European chef who was seduced by Southeast Asia many decades ago - is heading back to Thailand to open his Cranks Mistress Motel (entrance strictly to long-time Cranks devotees only).

He's uncertain of dates at this point, but hints the restaurant may be around for next month. I suggest eating there as often as humanly possible. Call 011-880-3442.