ICE CREAM UNWRAPPED

"WE DARE not trust our wit for making our house pleasant to our friends, so we buy ice cream."

So thought Ralph Waldo Emerson in the 19th century, and all sensible people still follow his advice.

Is there a human with a pulse who doesn't love the stuff? I know, stupid question, I've never met one either. Even in winter something draws us to the silken balm of the creamy full-fat types, the sharp freshness of fruit sorbets, and everything in between.

One of the reasons for the icy smooth stuff's popularity is that it's a carrier for seemingly infinite flavours.

Vanilla is still (weirdly enough) the world's most popular flavour, but there are fans of maize, yam and even cheese flavours in the Philippines, fans of hotdog ice cream made by Arizona manufacturer Udder Delights, and gourmand followers of top restaurants' flavours, such as gorgonzola.

Thankfully, sorbet is finally being released from its terrible bondage in the role of palate cleanser.

A gin and tonic works far better, without as much sugar.

Here is one of the most compelling cold and silky edibles you are likely to meet.

It comes from the great Jacob Kenedy, owner and chef of Bocca di Lupo in London.

What makes it so unusual and so good for a chocolate-flavoured ice is that it's almost a sorbet.

The lack of dairy means it's deeply, darkly, intensely chocolatey (which is why, despite the lack of cream, it's insanely rich). You really do need an ice cream machine for this, I can't pretend otherwise, if you want the sorbet to be silken smooth.

Beating it every hour to break up the crystals while it is freezing will give a fairly satisfactory result, but can't truly compare.

CHOCOLATE SORBET

(Serves four, according to Kenedy, but six to eight in my opinion, if you want to end up fully conscious.)

50g cocoa powder / 200g caster sugar / 50g glucose syrup or mild honey or a mix / 250g dark chocolate (70% to 74% cocoa solids), buttons or slab broken into pieces.

How: sieve the cocoa powder into a pot with the sugar. Pour over 500ml hot water, whisking to break up lumps as much as possible.

Add glucose syrup or honey, mix well and bring to the boil.

Remove from the heat, add chocolate in one go, and mix in well. Beat for a few minutes until perfectly smooth, then leave to cool to room temperature. Blend with stick blender if you want it extra smooth. Freeze in an ice-cream machine, then scoop into container and keep in freezer for up to three or four days.