Trendy post-initiation threads can set Xhosa men back thousands

31 January 2016 - 02:00 By Lin Sampson
subscribe Just R20 for the first month. Support independent journalism by subscribing to our digital news package.
Subscribe now

For six months after they come down off the mountain, Xhosa initiates wear the elegant threads of manhood; this amakrwala wear can set them back wodges of wonga, writes Lin Sampson

Khanya Mangweni is wearing a pink tailored jacket, a blue shirt and Daniel Hechter shoes. On his head is a hat with a zebra-skin band. He has a baby face that belies his 20 years. He bought most of his clothes at Markham and is studying environmental health at the Cape Peninsula University of Technology.

"All I can tell you is that the whole thing was very expensive but very worthwhile. I do not regret one cent I spent on my clothes. I feel my personality has changed and that I am finally grown up," he says.

It is registration day at CPUT and people mill around but Mangweni is a distinct figure.

These are the young gentlemen of the town, the new Xhosa initiates who are required to adhere to a strict dress code for a period of six months after they have come down from the mountain.

The clothes must be new to signify a new person.

A hat is essential; a check or tweed cap is popular. However, in a society ravaged by labels, other caps are catchy: Louis Vuitton with embroidery, and the tartan tam-o'-shanter. Most amakrwala wear wide-brimmed or straw hats. The trousers are usually khaki, and jeans can only be worn if they are neatly ironed. Shoes should be lace-ups although suede loafers are tolerated. A jacket - tweed, suede or wool - is essential, worn over a shirt with the top button done up. Top pocket silk squares are mandatory.

story_article_left1

This metamorphosis from boyhood to manhood can set you back wodges of wonga.

Luthando Makapela is studying office management. He says: "You know us boys from the Eastern Cape don't have money. Yo, for me it was too much a sacrifice. Sometimes I even went hungry.

"When we come from the mountain we have to look like gentlemen. We have to be smart. You are not allowed to show your arms or legs, only your face is open. It is too hot today, but I cannot take my jacket off. Everyone here knows I am an ikrwala and they respect me. I have changed from being a boy to becoming a man."

Most of the young men I talked to felt the experience was beneficially life-changing.

Lwando Zokufa is a second-year engineering student at a technical college. He says the whole experience has brought about a sea change. "It has made me a better person, I feel now I can play a role as an adult and provide for the whole family. I am someone who can be respected."

The whole process can cost anything from R10,000 to R20,000 - but all the young men I talked to believe it was money well spent.

Zukx Tiso, a DJ, says: " The aim is to leave our boyhood behind and become gentlemen. We are seeking dignity and it is important to dress like a gentleman. During this time we must behave politely and we cannot go to shebeens."

Thozamile Nkosa, who is hoping to register to study office management, explains: "I just wanted the best and was willing to pay. It is hard but we have to look our best."

Sandeliswe Mbune, looking sleek in a white jacket, has gone for luxe labels such as his Kurt Geiger shoes. "My family have the money," he says, "so I was able to get the best."

Sometimes family members give presents; Luthando Makapela's parents bought him a jacket at Top Shop at the V&A Waterfront.

story_article_right2

Some traditional leaders feel this trend has gone too far.

Says Eastern Cape House of Traditional Leaders chairman Nkosi Ngangomhlaba Matanzima: "I am not sure when the habit of dressing in this manner occurred. They used to just wear blankets, right up until the time they went to work. Then it became simple khaki trousers and a shirt. Now they spend a lot of money on fancy clothes. It is part of this generation. There is nothing we can do about it. It is none of our business. It is up to the parents. If they want to pay, they pay."

Once the most popular shops were in the mall beside the Bellville Railway station; now these young men can be found at Canal Walk and the V&A Waterfront and other ritzy outlets.

Mr Amien, the owner of the Skipper Bar, a shop that has hit pay-dirt in amakrwala clothing, says: "This interest in high fashion has increased over the years. They only go for certain labels. They might spend three to four thousand on one outfit. Just the jacket costs about a R1,000 and a hat can set them back R500. I have known some spend as much as R10,000 on one outfit and prices are increasing. Usually what they do is to start early putting down lay-bys and it takes about a year to save up the money."

Chicanos is another go-to shop, with its atmosphere of an old-style men's outfitters

The owner, who prefers not to be named, says: "Khaki used to be the thing, but that has changed. These are English gentleman's clothes. We used to carry Pringle but it has become too expensive. They know exactly what they want. I have tried for a long time to discover why they wear these particular clothes but nobody seems to know."

Around this time of year these young men, like flocks of migratory birds, stride the streets in small posses, bringing with them a sense of brio.

subscribe Just R20 for the first month. Support independent journalism by subscribing to our digital news package.
Subscribe now