Restaurant review: parc., Durban

12 April 2015 - 02:00 By Glynis Horning

Glynis Horning was shocked - and then pleasantly surprised - to discover the menu at her favourite breakfast spot had been revamped. The second-best breakfasts are those served decadently late, in bed, by one's beloved, with a side-serving of weekend papers. But as these inevitably entail wrestling with dirty political scandals and dirtier dishes (not to mention sheets), the best breakfasts are those served at parc.This small café in the heart of Glenwood is as fresh and fun as its wooden pavement tables with mismatched chairs and succulents in glass jars, and its menu scrawled in chalk across one wall. A home-from-home for artists, artisans, students and academics, on weekends it's a baggy-shorts-and-sandals spot as they meet before hitting beaches or movies or stocking up with warm focaccia and organic pain de campagne from the Glenwood Bakery next door.mini_story_image_hleft1Brett and Lara Gentles, the siblings behind parc., are third-generation Glenwood and they and their young staff know customers' every quirk, from preference in eggs - "soft but not snotty, G?" - to caffeine requirements: "Perhaps ditch the Red Cappuccino for a double espresso today, hey Prof?"They know our crowd so well they have our orders in the kitchen before we've sat down - an accomplishment, given our combined oddities, vegetarian to allergy-dictated and sheer bloody-minded. All are patiently accommodated by Brett, who trained with Christina Martin and worked at the likes of award-winning 9th Avenue Bistro. So a sudden menu revamp met shock and resistance.How could his sensational corn and zucchini cakes with grilled haloumi, perfectly poached eggs, calamata olives, fresh coriander, preserved lemon, and tomato and vanilla relish be "off the menu"? A replacement of polenta toast with poached eggs and cress may have met his creative urge, but that was beside the point.What it succeeded in doing, however, was free us from habits that had ensnared us, and force us to investigate new options. Without the revamp, we would not have discovered the joys of Brett's oats and spiced fruit compote with cream (a seductive blend of rich, sweet and tangy, R35); banana bread French toast with toasted cashews, bacon, fresh banana and honey (R65); and spiced haricot bean and chorizo hash with sautéed potato, poached eggs and fresh rocket (R70).Even toast and preserves proved an unexpected feast, the bread (potato rosemary from the bakery next door) lifted to new heights by the likes of homemade jam, lemon curd, anchovy butter and mature cheddar (R30).This month the corn and zucchini cakes have returned (R70), as tempting as ever, to be fallen on with new vigour - but not every week. We've vowed to explore other pleasures.There's a message in there somewhere, for both breakfasts and mornings in bed.Visit: parc., Oslo Buildings, 394 Esther Roberts Road, Glenwood, 031-205-7285; 7.30am-4pm Tuesday to Friday, 8am-2pm Saturday and Sunday...

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