Shanthini Naidoo savours some fast-breaking snacks in Fordsburg As sunset approaches, the aromas of ghee and cardamom waft through the streets of Fordsburg in central Johannesburg. At this time of year, during Ramadan, merchants of the suburb prepare street food and snacks for iftar, the evening meal at which Muslims break their daily fast. Freshly made deep-fried treats rich with ghee (clarified butter) and jaggery (unrefined cane and date sugar), and even some low-GI goodies like chickpeas, are available on Mint Road. And everyone is welcome.story_article_left1The most visible and best-known confectioner, Shalimar Delights, is well stocked with dates, which are eaten to break the fast. The regular varieties sell for around R50 for a small packet. Imported luxury varieties, stuffed with almonds and preserved in sugar, sell in gold and green boxes for up to R500.Manager Rashid Jilani says that at this time of year larger batches of colourful sweetmeats are prepared, but savoury snacks are much in demand."Many people work during the fast," he says, "so they buy savouries to take home for iftar." His shop is resplendent with bottles of almond milk, scented with rose and cardamom. It is afternoon and outside his shop and two huge vats of oil are being used to fry brinjals dipped in spiced chickpea flour (bhajia), samoosas and spring rolls. Inside, mountains of savoury crunchy snacks, chevda, murukoo and sev, are sold by the kilogram.Nearby, the famous Bismillah restaurant has a stall with heady haleem - a meaty, curried soup/stew cooked with lentils - for R45 a portion. The aloo paratha, a potato-and-mint stuffed bread, is a winning accompaniment at R7 a piece. Spicy vada (ground and fried dhal, similar to a falafel), sweet fingers and jalebi, for a few rands each, are delicious with masala tea.Although the Oriental Plaza seems deserted, the traders are open for business. Pies from Delhi Delicious are unrivalled, but not if you are watching your waistline - they do not go easy on the pastry. World of Samoosas has frozen or freshly fried samoosas, and a delicious coconut samoosa for dessert. They recommend Mansoor's Sweetmeats on Mint Road for homemade sweetmeats like milky burfi and spicy halwa. Shaheen Sweets and Bakery on Commercial Road is also popular.Those with the time and patience to seek out an elusive parking space will be rewarded by a visit to the farmers' market in the main square off Mint Road, where fresh produce and Indian street snacks are sold on weekends...