SA's answer to 'The Great British Bake Off's' Mary Berry

05 July 2015 - 02:00 By Yasantha Naidoo

Defy home economist Helene Herbst has dedicated her life to baking and teaching cooks to get the most of their stoves. She shares her story and one of her most sought-after recipes for a traditional milk tart If British baking queen Mary Berry had a counterpart in South Africa, it would be Helene Herbst. Berry, 80, the judge on the TV show The Great British Bake Off, started her culinary career showing customers how to operate their Aga ovens, using a trusted Victoria sponge recipe.This is strikingly similar to the way Herbst, a Defy home economist, began her career. For the past 37 years, Herbst, now 77, has taught home cooks how to get the most out of their ovens.For the mother of four, the appliance company's pay-off line ("You can rely on Defy") is much more than just a slogan. Her husband Thys was employed by Defy when he suffered a fatal stroke at work in 1977. This was both an emotional and financial blow for Herbst. The young widow turned to her love of cooking and baking, taught to her by her grandmother, to earn an income. Her skill with eggs, butter, flour and milk turned her tray bakes, biscuits and homemade meals into top-selling items at a local home industry shop.In 1979, her late husband's former colleague, Defy research and development manager George Gilbert, hired her part-time to test the company's ovens using her own foolproof sponge recipe.A year later, she joined the company as a full-time member of the research team, testing recipes and providing guidance to owners of new stoves. The role earned her the nickname "Mother of the Thermofan", as she gave advice on temperatures, rack placement and cooking methods.From melktert - one of her most requested recipes - to rusks, flop-proof scones and sponges, Herbst has answered thousands of calls from learner cooks, young brides and frustrated bakers, dealing with everything from sinking cakes to hard biscuits and leathery roasts."I often think if only Thys could see me now," she says. "I was shy and nervous and didn't know the first thing about working, but I knew I loved my kitchen and my oven was always my best friend."She has conducted seminars and hosts classes for new cooks at her Westville home. "To this day, I thank Defy for protecting me - first when they gave my husband a job, and then when they gave me a job. I have loved helping all the people who call me."There were so many people, mainly women, who called with queries about their ovens and my recipes. I would patiently talk them through the process, step by step."There were also days that I went out to visit customers. Once I was 15 minutes late to see a woman who was looking after four children. She was so cross and rude and didn't even offer me a glass of water. But I realised early on that you have to put yourself in the customer's shoes. I told her there was a special place in heaven for her because she looked after the children. That visit stuck with me always."Not even a hip-replacement operation in 2010 could stop her from working."My job and the customers kept me going through it all. I have made many friends by sharing recipes all over the country. It has been a privilege to know that I have helped put delicious meals and treats in people's homes. I will keep doing it as long as I can."Regardless of the parallels between her and Berry, Herbst has no time for reality cooking shows and is unmoved by the new global cult status of baking."I like my food wholesome and hearty. I don't like twigs on my plate with dots of colour. I am open to the fact that I don't know it all, but what I do know is that I'm old school, and I'm happy with that."full_story_image_hleft1HELENE HERBST’S MILK TART RECIPE*Makes 2 tarts (25-30cm diameter)Pastry:125g brick margarine or butter100g (½ cup) white sugar1 extra-large egg280g (2 cups) self-raising flour2.5ml (½ tsp) saltFilling:30ml (2 tbsp) brick margarine or butter825ml full-cream milk80g (2/3 cup) cake flour150g (¾ cup) sugar2.5ml (½ tsp) salt4 extra-large eggs, separatedGround cinnamonMethod:1) Preheat the oven to 180°C.2) For the pastry, cream the margarine and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the egg, beating well. Sift in the flour and salt and mix with a wooden spoon until the dough comes together away from the sides of the bowl.3) Divide the dough into 2 equal parts and press each portion into a greased pie tin to line the base and sides. Prick the base of the pastry with a fork.4) Bake for 15-20 minutes till a light golden brown, then remove from the oven and cool.5) For the filling, combine the margarine and 700ml of the milk in a saucepan and bring to the boil.6) In a bowl, mix the flour, sugar and salt with the remaining 125ml (½ cup) milk until well combined.7) Remove the boiling milk mixture from the stove and add approximately ¾ of the flour mixture to the milk. Stir quickly to mix well.8) In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks with a fork.9) Stir the egg yolks into the remaining ¼ creamy flour mixture with a metal spoon until completely mixed.10) Add the creamy yolk mixture to the thickened milk filling and return to the heat. Cook on a medium to low heat for 4-5 minutes, stirring constantly.11) In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form.12) Pour the hot filling mixture onto the beaten egg whites and fold in gently with a metal spoon. 13) Pour into the baked pie shells and sprinkle with ground cinnamon. Cool in the refrigerator for at least 4-5 hours before cutting. These tarts can be made the day before serving.*Adapted by Sunday Times Food Weekly..

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