Restaurant Review: Balducci, Cape Town

With a fresh new interior and the same old jaw-dropping views, it’s easy to see why Balducci keeps bringing in the crowds

Capetonians seem to have a love/hate relationship with the V&A Waterfront. We love to take visiting friends and family to wander on the quayside and shop for souvenirs in the indoor markets, but we complain bitterly about the crowds, the tourist kitsch and the over-priced parking.

Yet every time I find myself wandering along Quay Five, switching my gaze between sea and mountain views as I debate where to stop for lunch, I’m reminded just why the V&A remains the single most popular tourist destination in South Africa.

Balducci has been a stalwart of the Waterfront’s restaurant scene for nearly 20 years, and with good reason: it has something for everyone on its expansive menu, which includes everything from burgers and grills to delicate sushi, seasonal salads and Mediterranean-inspired fare.

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A menu that runs to a dozen pages normally rings alarm bells as to freshness and quality of cooking, but here the experienced kitchen seems to make it work.

With a few exceptions – next time I’ll try the miso-marinated lamb chops – it’s not overly adventurous fare, but there’s an extensive Asian section for those looking to eat off the beaten track. My starter of calamari tossed in teriyaki and chilli was perfectly tender and flavour-packed, while the sushi is well-made and laudably traditional, with a welcome lack of deep-fried, biltong-infused and sweet chilli-drenched choices on offer.

At the table alongside, the flame-grilled burger and thick-cut fries were receiving rave reviews, while in summer the salads, wood-fired pizza and noodle dishes are a hit.

The wine list is as expansive as the menu, with an excellent selection of well-priced easy-drinkers and more serious Cape estates. Happily, over a dozen wines are offered by the glass.

With the plates and the view taken care of, Balducci has recently given its interiors a nip/tuck, with ‘starchitect’ Stefan Antoni brought in to freshen up the look. The end result is a pleasing ensemble of classic bistro-style interiors with subtle décor touches of industrial and African influences.

Most importantly, stacking doors let those gorgeous harbour and mountain views wash in. Before the summertime crowds arrive and we all start complaining that there’s no parking, perhaps it’s time to revisit this Waterfront classic. Call 021-421-6002.

This article was originally published in Sunday Times Neighbourhood: Cape Town. Visit yourneighbourhood.co.za, like YourNeighbourhoodZA on Facebook and follow YourHoodZA on Twitter