Hanging out with gastronomic activists in Italy is the ultimate culinary adventure

06 November 2016 - 02:00 By Hilary Biller

From bugs to Ugandan bananas, Hilary Biller tasted, looked and listened as the world's slow food movement gathered in Turin, northern Italy, for Terra Madre Salone del Gusto 2016 Did you know that crickets (the insects) need only 17% of the food and less than 1% of the water and land resources of livestock for the same amount of protein?I discovered this only after I was offered a taste of Chaco bar - an everyday peanut buttery chocolate bar - when I was told it was made with cricket protein powder.As I gagged the producer urged me to "expand my mind and taste buds". Well, I tried, while he explained that cricket protein powder base was inspired by the Aztec and Native American cultures, who discovered that insects were good to eat.story_article_left1"Insects are healthy, delicious and a sustainable form of protein with 15% more iron than spinach and double the protein found in meat," he explained with great enthusiasm. Give me spinach any day!That was one of the many surprises of Terra Madre, an exhibition spread across the beautiful northern Italian city of Turin, capital of the Piedmont region.The event took place over five days and was divided into many facets. The more serious series of conferences was hosted in the historic Carignano theatre and featured experts whose focus was on the central theme of "loving the earth". They encouraged attendees to discover how, for better or worse, the way we produce food can change the planet.At a more informal level there were forums that allowed delegates from the Terra Madre network to debate and discuss problems relating to the food world.Throughout the city exhibitions and other cultural events in museums, art galleries, courtyards and squares allowed one to discover the world of food from multiple points of view.By far the most impressive was Valentino Park, a green belt on the banks of the Po River, which was turned into a white tented camp that stretched for miles and hosted more than 800 exhibitors, including Terra Madre food communities and Slow Food Presidia from 55 countries.It was a culinary adventure that took days, sampling and learning about products and produce - many of which I'd never seen or tasted before - and allowed me to speak to small producers from around the globe.full_story_image_hright1I was inspired by the vast community whose common goal was to save traditional foods from extinction, preserve ancient knowledge and recipes and celebrate seasonal and sustainable foods.I tasted some weird and wonderful things, among them the finest handmade mangalica sausage from Hungary.I watched as cocoa farmers from the Ivory Coast made natural chocolate from cocoa nibs in front of me, ate some of the sweetest bananas from Uganda, tasted the ancient pozegaca plum slatko (meaning sweet) from Bosnia Herzegovina and drank the finest and purest apple juice from an ancient orchard in Poland.I was inspired by a group of women from Mauritania who, together with Tuscan slow fooders, were working to support the local small-scale fishing industry. They produced mullet botargo, where the eggs are extracted from the mullet, rinsed, salted and dried to the traditional botargo - salted fish eggs. An acquired taste.Italian products included top-quality "grassy" extra virgin olive oils, cured meats, cheeses, aged authentic balsamic vinegars and some of the best freshly roasted hot hazelnuts sold in paper cones.At the South African stand some "Ark of Taste" products were promoted - Baleni salt from ancient salt pans in Limpopo, traditionally harvested by women; marmalade from the endangered Rex Union orange and Suid Bokkeveld Rooibos tea. There were tasting of marula jellies handmade by Hazel Roskelly in Haenertsburg, Limpopo; free-range beef biltong and droewors produced at Braeside Butchery in Joburg; a selection of South African raw-milk cheeses from and boerewors made by a local Italian chef using a traditional recipe and South African spices.full_story_image_hright2WHAT IS THE SLOW FOOD MOVEMENT?Carlo Petrini, president and founder of the Slow Food movement, explains: "We are an international association with 100,000 members. But our movement is much bigger, embracing all of the Terra Madre network and involving millions of activists, volunteers, consumers and food producers in 160 countries around the world.""If everyone who cares about the future of the planet makes a small donation to support the activities of Slow Food, this unique organisation will be able to continue its fight to construct a better world, to promote good, clean and fair food for everyone and to save biodiversity in every corner of the globe. "Every year we lose 27,000 species of plants and animals. That's 72 each day, or 3 per hour. Help us to save biodiversity."THE TERRA MADRE FESTIVAL IN NUMBERS65 chefs from around the world were involved with the programme of events.143 countries were represented by 7,000 delegates.1,500 delegates were hosted by the Torinese and Piedmontese communities for the duration of the event.1,000 volunteers assisted with the event across the city.7,000 people joined the festival main event, the Terra Madre Parade, led by Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini. They moved through the streets of Turin waving banners and flags, in traditional dress and accessories. Each person brought a gift - a handful of seeds, a homemade jam - to share with the person standing next to them.900,000 people visited the festival...

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