Male grooming: no longer about a short back and sides

7 guys tell Shanthini Naidoo about their hair routines, and what they would do if their barber left

sub_head_start LOCKED & HEAVILY LOADEDsub_head_end

Nathi Louw, 42 (pictured above)

Tattoo artist and musician

Describe your current hairstyle.

Long dreadlocks, which I have been growing since 2007.

What does your hair mean to you?

My hair represents patience. I had a job in property, which I left when I was 20, and that was around the time I started growing my hair. It was a life change. There are dreams in this hair, I am a musician, you see.

What do you think it says about you?

It says I am different. People stop and ask about how long it took to grow, that I shouldn't cut it. But it is different. Where I am from, in Soweto and in my culture, men with long hair is not what we are used to. People ask if I am Rastafarian, which I am not. But I feel respected. My whole family, from my mum who is 80, to my kids, have dreads now. They are so much fun ... a chick magnet if I can say so. People have offered me lots of money for them.

What types of hairstyles have you had in your life, and which was the worst?

An Afro, and an S-curl.

What would you never do to your hair again?

Definitely the S-curl from my high school days (laughs). That was a disappointment.

Tell us about your hair routine and your barber.

Twice a week I wash it in the shower, but my younger brother, who is my stylist, treats the dreads - there are 20 of them - and reshapes them every couple of months. I really concentrate on my hair two times a year. As it gets heavier, pieces can break off, so I get them woven. I will keep them long until I have to cut them off. They will be heavy for an old man.

sub_head_start SHORT AND AGREEABLEsub_head_end

Thomas Falkiner, 33

Motoring writer

Describe your current hairstyle.

Short, no fuss. Side part or worn up. I use clippers on the back and sides (a No6) and then blend the top in with scissors.

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What does this choice of coif mean to you?

Ease of use. It also gives me at least two-and-a-half months between cuts.

What do you think it says about you?

Sensible. Timeless. Unfussed by passing fads or trends. Conservative? Perhaps. But then I suppose I am.

What types of hairstyles have you had in your life?

I've tried growing it but couldn't get through the so-called "shit phase". I once had an Emo cut over the December holidays in 2006. Big mistake. It was shortish on the sides and back with this ridiculously long fringe that I had to keep swept to the side. Awful. Cringeworthy.

What would you never do to your hair again?

Use gel. I have thin hair and hair gel makes it clump together, exposing my (pale) scalp.

Tell us about your hair routine and your barber. What would you do if he had to move away?

I've used the same barber for 12 years: Boyden Barnardo at Freedom Hair in Melville. We are old friends since he got into hairdressing in 2004. I was one of his early customers. I don't go to anybody else. If I moved away, say down to Cape Town, I would probably fly back up every three months for a cut. He's the best.

sub_head_start MOODY MANSCAPING sub_head_end

Winston Mangaru, 35

Banking executive

Describe your current hairstyle.

It changes according to my mood. I have it combed all back one day with short bouncy curls. Last week, I had it combed over, with a side part. The week before I had it spruced up and spiky.

What does this choice of coif mean to you?

It speaks to my flair for being flexible and spontaneous.

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What do you think it says about you?

I can be trendy or not. Each day is determined by how colourful I feel when I wake up in the morning.

I also have the ability to be flamboyant, and the extreme of being reserved.

What types of hairstyles have you had in your life, and which was the worst?

I have curled it, straightened it, combed it up and down, bleached it blond, and even wrapped foil around the spikes when I went to raves.

What would you never do to your hair again?

I will never wrap foil around my hair again. But I'm glad that I tried it when I was 19.

Tell us about your hair routine and your barber.

I shampoo and condition every day. I apply herbal hair oil overnight, once a month. I crack an egg on my head while standing in the sun whenever I get a chance (protein), allow it to dry and pour half a cup of brandy over it (to clarify). I visit my barber once in three weeks.

When I travel, I carry my heavy duty hairdryer as additional luggage and my hair iron. The climate out of the country has never affected my hair, luckily.

sub_head_start NO MAINTENANCEsub_head_end

Yolisa Mkele, 27

Writer

Describe your current hairstyle.

In a word: neglected. My relationship with my hair is about as complex as Grade 2 maths.

What does this choice of coif mean to you?

Hmmm ... I suppose the fact that I have not combed it in years means it is one less thing I have to worry about in the mornings. I generally just consider it to be a well-meaning fungus growing on top of my head that I have to cut every now and then to avoid unwelcome tenants.

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What does your hair say about you?

I imagine I could spin a story about its au naturel state showcasing my proud Africanness. But really it just says: "I couldn't be bothered."

What is the worst thing you have done to your hair?

All of the worst ones. I've done the Dingaan Thobela cut, cornrows (cringe), an S-curl (that was super-high-maintenance), an Afro, twists, and my default cut: the brush cut (it is not nearly as exotic as it sounds).

Never again?

Definitely cornrows. Aside from the fact that they feel like Satan is trying to pull the skin on your skull off when they're being done, they are also a relic of the '90s when XL FUBU shirts and rappers like Memphis Bleek were a thing. I also wouldn't do an S-Curl or an Afro as they are too much work and I have no desire to look like someone who will quote you Fanon when you ask for the time.

Tell us about your routine, and your barber.

My daily hair routine simply involves getting it wet when I shower. As for my barber, I go to him out of convenience, because he is cheap and he washes my scalp wonderfully. If he moved, that would be a sad day. I would probably buy clippers and convince trusted people in my life to cut it for free.

sub_head_start LA POMPADOUR sub_head_end

Shahan Ramkissoon, 31

News anchor

Describe your current hairstyle.

I didn't know what my hairstyle was called until I moved to New York. It is what's known as a pompadour. It's basically short on the side and pretty pouffy on top.

What does this choice of coif mean to you?

Hair is hair, but it really does define one's overall look. I figure it's clean-cut, trendy and makes me feel good about the way I look in 2016.

What do you think it says about you?

I'd hope it says edgy but as a news anchor there's a line I simply can't cross. My hairstyle should not take away from my credibility as a journalist. It should not be the only thing people focus on when they tune in, so I've had to tame things a bit when I moved back to South Africa.

In New York and London it was much higher on top but that doesn't really work here. eNCA actually asked me to "tone it down" a bit. I respect that because I know people should be listening to what I'm saying and not focusing on how I look. So in a nutshell, my hairstyle says I'm a trendy professional guy.

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What types of hairstyles have you had in your life, and which was the worst?

Growing up I had a normal side sweep, I then went on to the spikes (like my friends) and then in my late 20s I moved on to the pompadour.

The way my hair looks actually helps with my confidence for the day. I know when I'm having a bad hair day and it does make me slightly uneasy for a while. Then I realise it's not that big a deal and forget about it.

What would you never do to your hair again?

I'd never do the one-inch cut again. I had to shave off my hair in 2010 because I had a friend shave the sides and naturally she messed it up, so we had to take it all off. That look works for some guys and girls, but definitely not me.

Tell us about your hair routine and your barber.

It takes time ... I wash my hair twice a day (against the advice of my stylist). I have to because I must wash it in the morning and then again after CrossFit at night. Because of that I have good shampoos and conditioners.

Then there's the tedious blow drying. I use a big roller brush and start from back to front. I have to stop for a break sometimes because my hands start to hurt. Once that's done, I finish off with hairspray (the good stuff).

My stylist (Stef, from The Senate) is one of the few people I trust. I'm very nervous if anyone else has to cut my hair. I'd rather have untidy hair for a month or two than let someone else come near me. He knows I'm a perfectionist and for some reason my hair only looks good when he cuts it. When I moved to New York I struggled to find the right person and eventually I found an Italian guy who understood the dynamics of my hair.

sub_head_start STRUCTURED STRANDSsub_head_end

Brett Rogers, 36

Television personality

Describe your current hairstyle.

A short low fade, the sides have some length, top has a bit more with lots of irregularity.

What does this choice of coif mean to you?

For me it's just a big change from my usual intent. I've had long hair for a long time and now after two years I finally have a short cut again. In the past I have tried to push a punk edgy feel for my cut, but I really wanted to try something more classic and conservative.

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What do you think it says about you?

Perhaps it is me trying to show a little less of myself. I tend to live with my heart on my sleeve and it is tiring. This cut is more conservative than I am and is hiding me a bit.

What types of hairstyles have you had in your life, and which was the worst?

I have had every style imaginable, except for dreads and a side pony. I do have memories of this: bowl cut, frosted tips, slightly gelled. It was so gross. My parents still have a picture (and no, you can't see it).

What would you never do to your hair again?

Never say never. I'm always willing to play.

Tell us about your hair routine and your barber. What would you do if he moved away?

My hair routine includes bimonthly visits to Freedom Hair to see Boyden Barnardo, who has cut my hair for the last six years. I honestly don't know what I'd do if he left ... I'd be devastated.

He is an amazing friend and creative partner.

I wash and condition my hair with Paul Mitchell tea-tree range. It is great for scalp health. Then I blow dry my hair and beard to prevent dandruff. I do some light styling with Dax Wax Red. It is awesome for restyling from time to time in the day.

sub_head_start OVER THE TOPsub_head_end

Rowan Kelly, 38

Corporate graphic designer

Describe your current hairstyle.

It is a work in progress. I am slowly losing my hair, so this is my natural hairline. When you are going bald, you either shave it all off or play with what you have.

The colour changes, but the cut stays pretty much the time. I have cut it a little shorter, so I can wear a helmet for mountain biking.

What does this choice of coif mean to you?

I actually first saw it in a music video of a thrash metal band. I am into music, punk and hip-hop, and this hairstyle represents that ethos. People recognise me from festivals, where I spend a lot of my free time, like Woodstock and Oppie Koppie, Hellfest in France, Sonisphere in London.

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What do you think it says about you?

It can be intimidating if you don't know me, but people realise I am showing off my creative flair, that I am quite relaxed and calm. It is an outlet, though. I would be frustrated with normal hair. My hairstyle, clothes and jewellery show that I am part of a creative industry.

What types of hairstyles have you had in your life?

I used to have very long hair, dyed blond in the front. I've always been creative with my hair and pushed boundaries, even at school I would shave "U2", "AC/DC" and "Nirvana" into my hair.

What would you never do to your hair again?

I don't think I'd dye it fluorescent orange again. I wasn't comfortable with that. I am into high-energy colours, Chernobyl green, silver or purple, but the orange did not work. I would not shave my hair or ever have a comb over.

Tell us about your hair routine and your stylist. What would you do if she moved away?

I have a mate called Mel Taylor who I met about six years ago. If she moved, ooh, I would have to move with her. We have experimented and become more extreme as we go along. The colours have been getting intense. We have tried everything.

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