Spending a bit extra to stay hot under the collar

Does a crisp, tailored shirt maketh the man? An international debate about whether the "average" R350 off-the-rack shirt is office-acceptable, as opposed to the tailored/designer variety, has reached South Africa.

Those overseas who know about style say there are successful men who drive luxury German sedans but dumb down their appearance by going the cheaper polycotton shirt route.

Some South African fashion gurus concur. They reckon an expensive shirt does maketh the man - especially if that man is hankering after a major business deal that will land him in the pound seats.

But other fashion experts say there's nothing shameful in career men wearing a modestly priced garment to the office, if they're not keen to break the bank for a single shirt.

Sonwabile Ndamase, designer of Nelson Mandela's signature shirts, said South African men in the corporate world should not be dressing as if "they're going to the park".

"Men, when they go to work, have to dress up according to the environment ... you can't be casual in a corporate environment.

"When it comes to a shirt, people should understand that there is nothing more exclusive than a crisp white shirt that is good of quality and fabric.

"A good shirt can make the man look perfect and professional.

"You can't just put on a cheap shirt in a corporate environment. If you can afford it, why not spend a little more."

Clean and uncut is what South African men should be going for when it comes to their shirts, said Ndamase.

Cape Town socialite Aubrey Ngcungama said "a good shirt is never out of place".

"That's why I don't own a single T-shirt, and I find it amusing to see people wearing T-shirts under suit jackets, no matter how expensive the T-shirt may be.

"Therefore, a decent tailored shirt for work should be standard. But a less expensive but well-made shirt is no sin either."

Ngcungama said there was no need to spend a fortune.

"There is plenty of variety in the price ranges available from local and international brands. I personally tend to wear colourful jackets, so white shirts are the norm.

"However, I do have colourful tailored shirts that I wear without jackets, just to be visible and comfortable. But with a suit, a decent shirt speaks volumes," said Ngcungama.

Prasheen Bhagwan, owner and head designer at B Gangaram Tailors in Umhlanga, is inundated with requests for tailor-made Egyptian cotton shirts at a cost of R1,500.

"There is a big demand for tailor-made shirts. Clients who have their suits tailored usually want the shirt to complement the look for the corporate world.

"Once you get a guy into a tailor-made shirt, he doesn't want to go back to the ready-made variety."

White Egyptian-cotton shirts are most popular, but Bhagwan also makes tailored polycotton shirts for about R500.

Derrick Mhlongo, a Durban model agent, model and stylist, said first impressions were lasting.

"If you walk into a boardroom well dressed, you command respect. In the creative world ... you can be more relaxed. I can wear a R150 shirt. My most expensive shirt cost me R1,000.

"With the emergence of the tenderpreneurs and BEE businessmen, a good shirt is important.

"In the asset-management field, guys will spend up to R3,000 on a shirt.

"The collar also determines how trendy you are. The guys in the commercial sector go for the broader-collared shirts and wider ties, but on the creative side guys prefer the slimmer collar and slimmer knots in the ties," Mhlongo said.

Nicola Cooper, a trend researcher, said a shirt's acceptability at the office was "completely decided on by the individual, his disposable income, his role within the company and, of course, the culture of the company".

"If the wearer wishes to portray himself in a certain way, he will choose something more expensive. However, others may be practically driven, or may just perceive a shirt to be a shirt. Both are acceptable."