This bru knows how to brew!

30 April 2017 - 02:00 By SHELLEY SEID
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Ryan Swart brews everything from mead to sake to ales and lagers.
Ryan Swart brews everything from mead to sake to ales and lagers.
Image: JACKIE CLAUSEN

It's not possible to question the commitment of Ryan Swart to the art of brewing.

The co-founder of the Durban Homebrewers Club estimates he has spent in the region of R100,000 on equipment, ingredients and building a small brewery alongside his mother's home.

He has spent hundreds of hours brewing ales, lagers and stouts. He has a different glass for each style of brew and three taps at home connected to three different kegs of homemade beer.

He has created drinks with honey, with chocolate, with cranberry and with jasmine; he has even turned his hand to gin, port, whisky, wine, brandy and sake, the Japanese drink made from fermented rice.

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The industrial-relations specialist, like other members of the club, doesn't do this for financial gain. He doesn't even particularly like beer. It's done for the love of the process and the satisfaction of creating something that tastes good.

Home brewing is growing so rapidly, it's almost a national pastime. In South Africa, no licence is needed to brew batches of less than 300 litres as long as the beer is consumed on site and is not sold.

The Durban Homebrewers Club began two years ago with six members. Today it is 82 strong and counting.

It is by no means the only home-brewing club in South Africa. In KwaZulu-Natal there is also East Coast Brewers; Wart Hogs Brewers has chapters in Gauteng; Yeastern Cape rules in the Eastern Cape and there are clubs in Bloemfontein, Helderberg and along the Garden Route.

"There are at least a dozen clubs across the country," said Lucy Corne, author of two books on beer in South Africa, editor of On Tap, the only beer magazine in the country, and president of the Cape Town-based Southyeasters Homebrewing Club.

She said there had been massive growth in the hobby. "I went to my first home-brewing club meeting in 2010. There were about 30 members. Our mailing list is now over 700."

The demographic had changed from old men with grey hair and beards to young men who "still have beards, but they are not grey", said Corne.

This is not a home for hipsters, though — "it's more for geeks and wannabe scientists".

Swart, who cheerfully admits to being "obsessed" and something of a "mad scientist", visited a sake brewery in Japan two years ago. He is now preparing his third batch of sake, which has to be kept in a temperature-controlled space and checked daily for 30 days.

He imports the rice and the spore needed to ferment the rice. It costs him around R1,500 to brew five litres of sake.

He began brewing just three years ago, but it had been a long-held dream.

block_quotes_start We meet monthly, hold competitions, host beer-related events. There are restaurants that allow us to bring our beers and pair them with their food. block_quotes_end

"When I was a kid my granddad would tell me stories about life in Zambia, where he worked on the mines. He and his friends would hold beer parties. Apparently they had to regularly drink all their beer so they could use the bottles for the new batch. They bought their hops from pharmacies. It seemed so strange to me. I had preconceived ideas of beer — I thought it only came from SAB."

Three years ago he bought a brewing kit online, thinking it would be something to do with his father, who became his reluctant guinea pig.

He began to study brewing techniques, different styles of beers and then decided he needed a like-minded community to bounce ideas off, hence the club.

"We meet monthly, hold competitions, host beer-related events. There are restaurants that allow us to bring our beers and pair them with their food. There is a small business called BeerBro in Hillcrest who source and import everything and anything beer-related and we buy through them."

The Durban club runs an annual "Ales for Tails" event, open to the public, where different homemade brews may be sampled. The winner is voted for by the public and the proceeds go to the SPCA.

Swart likes to give his beverages as gifts. Some clients were given a single malt whisky last Christmas, others were given a pomegranate and grape wine — made from grapes grown in his garden.

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sub_head_start Here for the beer, and whiskysub_head_end

Photographer Jackie Clausen sampled some of Swart's hand-forged brews and spilled her thoughts on the taste.

Japanese-inspired rice lager: This crisp, tart drink, made from Japanese hops and rice, is a sweeter brew with hints of caramel and malt.

American-style Amber Ale: A low-alcohol easy drinking sweet and fruity ale with a distinct floral aroma and a Horlicks-style maltiness and creaminess.

Pale Ale: This tart brew tastes of granadilla and citrus thanks to the Southern Passion hops.

Chocolate Stout: Brewed from cocoa nibs, this is a decadent, full-bodied syrupy drink with strong coffee tones.

Sake: A delicious fruity, sweet and very smooth drink, with a high alcohol level that makes it an instant cheek-warmer. A sneaky drink that delivers a punch a couple of pots on.

Single-malt, single-barrel whisky: Aged for two years, this hazelnut-coloured drink, above, is smooth and strong, with a smoky palate from the peat-smoked malt imported from Scotland.

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