Andrea Nagel swaps stilettos for sand between her toes on a trip to Bazaruto Island, off the coast of Mozambique It doesn't take long for the outside world to recede when you're travelling on a boat in turquoise water and looking out for dugong - our biggest concern was a stray splash as the long, white coast of Bazaruto Island, off the coast of Mozambique, came into view.Mozambique has many faces and at Anantara Resort, on the beaches of the island for which the Bazaruto archipelago is named, we were about to experience the country with all her make-up on.About 40 minutes from the mainland by water, the Indian Ocean island - an emerald set in white gold and surrounded by a sapphire sea - offers adventure on a plate, but it's not the kind you have to suffer for. Anantara is a place that is given over to unadulterated relaxation and enjoyment.story_article_left1We were asked to hand over our shoes - we would not be needing them again until Monday - and when the boat reached the shore we jumped into the warm water and waded onto land, sidestepping the bits of sun-bleached shells that litter the beach. It was early afternoon and there was a dhow on the horizon.Our first view of the resort was the discrete chalets that line the beach, each with its own pair of deck chairs and grass umbrella, and hammocks strung up between palms for lazing away the afternoon hours.During lunch at the beach restaurant, one of three at the resort, we ate prawns and freshly caught fish, digging our toes into the sand while discussing the important business of the weekend - whether to go horse riding along the beach at dawn; snorkelling on the reefs; boating to Paradise Island; sandboarding or cruising by dhow at sunset. As we were six women travelling together, the spa manager took down our preferred times and treatments as the first order of business.A slow run on the beach ending with a swim in the warm water felt like the perfect way to watch the sun go down. No one tries to sell me anything and the saluting guard at the last chalet was the only other person sharing the softening of the light. Still blue on the outbound leg, the water turned the colour of petrol, reflecting a pink sky and sliver of moon.mini_story_image_hright1The following morning, we took a boat to Paradise Island, also called Santa Carolina. It's the smallest of the five islands that make up the Bazaruto Archipelago and the waters surrounding it are turquoise and clear. Before we were let loose on the white beach that hasn't seen a footprint in decades, or so it seems, we stopped for a snorkel on one of the nearby reefs. Parrot fish, looking as if they'd raided a transvestite's vanity case, swam around enormous multicoloured clams that shyly revealed their purple, electric blue and leopard-print intimates.Lunch on the beach was freshly caught fish, grilled prawns and salad, all served with gin and tonic. A Norwegian couple on holiday - a nurse and a restaurateur with an island of his own - joined us.Nearby was an abandoned hotel, which we explored after lunch. In its heyday, celebrities and wealthy sun seekers would clink cocktails here and dance the night away overlooking the calm waters. Now, the beautiful, crumbling ruin whispers their secrets to the sea.A full body massage and then a jacuzzi-with-a-view took up what remained of the afternoon. We piled into the hot water with the Norwegians, looking out across the bay as the last dhow came in with its catch.story_article_left2The next day was book-ended by a dawn gallop along the beach and sandboarding at sunset.In between, there were hours spent wallowing in the water. Some chose the infinity pool and beach bar serving pina coladas with a view of palms and white sand; others preferred the pool further down the beach with its shaded grottos to play in. But why settle for either when the warm Indian Ocean is on the resort's doorstep?There are no waves here and you can see to the bottom of the sea. We began by wading in and ended up swimming an hour out so that the restaurant on the sand was a speck in the distance.Before leaving the next day, I took a last walk along a beach swept by grass brooms to remove every imperfection and revelled in the balmy sea air, storing up the relaxation you can only get from that time out of time where the land, sea and air meet.- Nagel was a guest of Anantara Bazaruto Island Resort and Airlink. See more photos of this destination.sub_head_start IF YOU GO ... sub_head_endGETTING THERE: Airlink offers direct, scheduled flights between Johannesburg and Vilanculos as well as from Nelspruit to Vilanculos and operates as a franchisee to SAA.BOOKINGS: Book at flyairlink.com, through a booking agent or SAA Central Reservations on 011-978-1111. Airlink is a member of SAA's Voyager loyalty programme.THE HOTEL: Anantara Bazaruto Island Resort & Spa has 44 villas designed to blend in with the natural surroundings. There are two swimming pools - one for families - and three restaurants, as well as a private "dining by design" option. The spa offers various treatments including traditional Thai, clay rhassoul and Mozambique sand compress massages.RATES: Prices vary according to season and room type. SADC rates are from $912 per villa per night in a Deluxe Sea View Pool Villa to $293 per person per night in a Beach Villa. Excellent special offers are also listed on the Anantara website.CONTACTS: E-mail bazaruto@anantara.com or see bazaruto.anantara.com...