A quick guide to planning your trip to Lake Malawi

08 July 2015 - 02:00 By Paul Ash
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Lake Malawi.
Lake Malawi.
Image: Thinkstock

Lake Malawi, one of the biggest, deepest and longest freshwater lakes in the world, is a great African great escape. Whether you're a backpacker on a budget or are looking for a more luxurious lakeside holiday, here's what you need to know to start organising your trip

Captivated by Lake Malawi's beauty – and the glow of fishermen’s lanterns at night – explorer David Livingstone called it “the Lake of Stars”. Despite growing population pressures, it is one of earth’s last unspoiled places – little bays marked with sculpted boulders, mountains that rise sheer from the shoreline, bright blue fish and water so fresh and pure it’s a wonder it hasn’t all been bottled.

Three countries – Malawi, Mozambique and Tanzania – sprawl along its shores: it's known as Lake Malawi, Lago Niassa (Mozambique) or Lake Nyasa (Tanzania). It's the third-largest freshwater lake in Africa and is 580km long, 75km wide at its widest point and 706m deep at its deepest.

Home to crocodiles, hippos and a vast number of fish eagles, the lake’s most famous inhabitants are the brightly-coloured cichlid fish of which there are roughly 1 000 species and which are highly sought-after to adorn the world’s private aquariums.

sub_head_start WHERE TO STAY sub_head_end

SOUTHERN AND EASTERN SHORE

Many travellers head straight to Cape Maclear which used to be one of the world’s great backpacker destinations. Cape Maclear has glorious beaches, a relaxed vibe and, for many, will be the place where they spend their entire holiday. It's also close enough to Monkey Bay from where the MV Ilala ferry sails to other destinations on the lake.

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Cape Maclear has plenty of cheap accommodation of varying quality. One of the best places is Kayak Africa’s lodge which is the base for its clients who are en route to its superb low-impact lodges on Mumbo and Domwe Islands.

Mumbo is a luxury tented camp on a small island well offshore from Cape Maclear; it can only be reached by kayak or Kayak Africa’s own launch. It's the classic castaway island with forest down to the water’s edge, a sliver of beach and clear, warm water for swimming and snorkeling. There’s not much to do here except relax, or go for a walk in the forest or paddle a kayak around the island. Accommodation is in airy, roomy safari tents, built on wooden decks, which each have a different view of the lake. The whole lodge sleeps just 14 people. Rates start at $210 pppn in the low season, high season $240.

South of Monkey Bay is the famous and long-lived Club Makokola, now known as the Makokola Retreat. The resort’s villas are set on forested lawns at the edge of the lake, which is the focus of many of the activities offer including scuba diving and parasailing. There's also golf, squash, tennis, bowls and a spa for those who prefer to relax on land.

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About 250km to the north is Likoma Island, a little piece of Malawi in Mozambican waters. The island is home to a few thousand people and would be unremarkable were it not so pretty and peaceful. It’s worth making the trek to get there (the best way is on lake ferry or by charter aircraft, see below) if only to see the baobab trees growing along the lakeshore or the magnificent cathedral which was built piece by piece from 1903 with material shipped in from overseas or the mainland.

There is great snorkeling in the island’s many quiet, empty bays and it would be difficult to find a more relaxed place for an African beach holiday.

There are two lodges of note for travelers – the luxurious Kaya Mawa, and the more chilled Mango Drift backpackers where a beachfront chalet costs $70 per night.

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Likoma is also the jumping off place for Nkwichi Lodge, which is in the Manda Wilderness area on the Mozambican shore of the lake. Nkwichi is special in every way – luxurious, peaceful, eco-conscious and utterly secluded. It has a glorious beach, there is fine snorkeling and swimming among the sculpted boulders and some lovely walks to waterfall and up the side of a large granite boulder from which there are views of the lake and Likoma Island glimmering in the west. Rates start at $330 per night for a chalet.

WESTERN SHORE

Nkhata Bay (413km north of Lilongwe, 576km from Blantyre) is the lure for travelers heading up Lake Malawi’s western shore. It's a traditional waypoint and R&R stop on the overland backpackers’ route between East Africa and Cape Town and as such has the tourist facilities to match. One of the best is Mayoka Village Beach Lodge. Mayoka has boats and snorkelling gear and beaches and fish eagles that they feed. There are also some great cliffs to go jumping off into the clear waters of the lake. Rates are $35 pppn in a chalet with shared bathrooms.

sub_head_start HOW TO GET THERE sub_head_end

Malawi has two international airports – Lilongwe and Blantyre.

Lilongwe is a better jumping-off point to the western shores of the lake as well as for charter flights to Likoma Island and the glorious Nkwichi Lodge on the Mozambican shore.

Blantyre offers better access to the southern portion of the lake and Monkey Bay, the home port of the iconic lake ferry, the MV Ilala.

Both SAA and Malawian Airlines – with the help of partner carrier Ethiopian Airlines – offer regular and competitive flights between Johannesburg and Lilongwe at Blantyre. For updated fare comparisons, see skyscanner.net.

sub_head_start GETTING AROUND sub_head_end

BY ROAD

Unless you are driving you own car – or renting one at Blantyre or Lilongwe airports, an expensive option – you will have to rely on the various buses that serve the lake. Shire Bus Lines is the largest operator with buses running across the country. But there are many others, operating all kinds of vehicles from minibuses to 44-seat coaches in varying states of repair.

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If you are using the buses, try to get local information on the reliability of the operator concerned before you board. Ask around at hotels and backpackers and do examine the overall state of each bus before you climb aboard.

The journey from Blantyre to Monkey Bay takes around 4-5 hours. You will have to hop board local transport such as a pick-up truck – known as matolas here – or minibus for the short leg to Cape Maclear.

If you want to rent a car, two agencies recommended by Malawi Tourism are SS Rent a Car and Sputnik Car Hire, both of which have vehicles ranging from saloon cars to 4X4s.

BY AIR

If you have the cash, using one of the light aircraft charter operators is a good way to get around. Bush & Lake Aviation (email info@bla.mw) operates three aircraft on private charters, scenic flights and will also carry light cargo anywhere in Malawi as well as to Zambia and Mozambique.

Ulendo Airlink offers scheduled and charter flights to various destinations from Lilongwe. It is not cheap – a one-way fare to Likoma Island costs $295 – but it is convenient. The airline operates modern turboprop aircraft.

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BY LAKE FERRY

The classic 1950s lake ferry MV Ilala features in just about every conversation about how to get around the lake. At the time of writing (in 2015), the ferry was docked for repairs but services are being handled by the newer, faster, but infinitely characterless MV Chilembwe which runs a fast service between the various lake ports. It departs Monkey Bay on Fridays and sails via Likoma and Nkhata Bay to Chilumba in the far north where it arrives late Sunday afternoon. The vessel retraces its route to arrive back in Monkey Bay on Tuesdays. See malawitourism.com for timetables and fares.

Another ship, the MV Chambo, offers a much less luxurious freighter service between Malawi and the towns on the Mozambican shore of the lake. The MV Chambo has room for vehicles so would be a good option for overlanders looking for easier access from Malawi to Northern Mozambique.

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