Janine Stephen makes a marvellous discovery in a spot above a gorge carved by the Umgeni It started with a search for Table Mountain, near Pietermaritz-burg. There is indeed such a geological oddity, flat, enormous, and supposedly visited by the legendary serpent Inkanyamba, who lives in a dam on the summit.But it's not the kind of place to visit on a whim: permission from a chief is advised, as is a guide but nobody at uMshwathi Tourism was in that day to help us organise either. Climbing Mkhambathini was going to have to wait.Happily, there was ample space available in a refuge in a neighbouring valley. Cumberland Nature Reserve also boasts paperbark thorns and rich grassland, but no Nguni cattle. Plus the Umgeni River has sliced an impressive gorge along the edge - all tangled forest and trumpeter hornbills. There's even a hazy view of Table Mountain at a certain vantage point.mini_story_image_hleft1WHY GOOwner Stella Behn's dad saved this 300ha patch of KZN beauty from sand mining back in 1985, the reserve opened about a decade later. (There's fascinating history: a portion of Stella's family farm used to belong to Harriet Colenso, oldest daughter of John Colenso, the first Bishop of Natal, who, with William Ngidi, wrote the first Zulu-English dictionary, published in 1861.)Clumps of trees are still left on humps on sections of ground, sand dug out around them. Rehabilitation has been spectacular; grassland now surfs the hills, it's home to a bunch of antelope and other species.It's crazy close to Pietermaritzburg but feels properly wild. Eagles watched us arrive; some strange undulating tracks on the footpaths turned out to be meters-long python. Stella tells a family story about a neighbour who once called to ask for help: "There's a python in my bath," she'd cried.WHAT IT HASCumberland has a magic, spacious picnic area, lots of game including kudu, nyala and zebra, hiking trails, and dense forest-coated gorge walls. There's an honesty box for day visitors.For those who want to stay longer, check out the self-catering accommodation of various kinds, including a small, solar-powered encampment for two in the middle of lots of space called the Krantz Hut (our choice), and a cottage on a pretty river bend. Believe it or not, the river is home to crocs. There are walks to two lovely waterfalls.WHAT IT'S LIKEOtherworldly, star-spangled, and peaceful. There's a neighbour's dam just outside the entrance gate, which offers yet another mini-biome (birders, that could mean orange-breasted waxbills).There's a krantz once named Aasvogelkrans that offers sweeping views of the gorge. It's quite a drop: Dingaan is said to have tossed unwanted enemies off here. Cumberland also hosts admirable Outdoor Educator camps for school groups.story_article_right1SOMETHING SPECIALStella had always wanted her own giraffe (who doesn't?).Then, a few years back, her son's friend - who worked in game capture - said he could organise a pair. Despite Stella's cry of "I don't have R2,4000 for giraffe", her family organised to swap some impala and zebra for a handsome couple, who were promptly christened Gerry and Rosie.They had a child, now a gangly teen, and just 10 days before our visit, a second baby giraffe had been born, all eyes and legs. All posed for a family portrait.WHAT TO PACKA torch, towels, creature comforts.AND THE FOODYou're on your own here: happy cooking. Gas plates are in the Krantz Hut kitchen, drinking water supplied.RATESR400 for two people per night in the Krantz Hut. Booking is essential, as is self-sufficiency - this is an inconspicuous natural getaway, not a bells-and-whistles place to be pampered.GETTING THEREStella will send you faultless directions. In essence: take Table Mountain Road, turn off onto the gravel D408 and 6.5km later you'll be at the gate.CONTACTCall Stella Behn on 082-376-5600 or see cumberlandreserve.co.za...