There's nothing like a pride of lions to get climbers moving up the most precarious of cliffs, writes Claire Keeto. Only in Africa can lions jeopardise one's rock-climbing plans. But on a winter morning at the Entabeni reserve in the Waterberg, a lioness, two cubs and a male lion sprawling in the early sun were on the path we'd planned to take to the base of the cliff.Experienced mountaineer Ulrike Kiefer had arranged for members of the Mountain Club of SA to climb and hike in this Big Five reserve and for rangers to drop us close to Hanglip mountain at sunrise.When the rangers saw the lions, they drove us higher up the slope and urged us to get moving as one stood guard with a rifle.story_article_left1"I'm not going to shoot the lions so you'd better hurry," he said as the lioness got off her haunches and started moving in our direction. The male raised its head to watch us.The group then split up, the hikers going off with Ulrike for a tough walk on the mountain, the climbers dividing into three groups.Jaco Smuts and I were one of three climbing parties on the rock that day.The Lazy Asses, a group of guys in their early 30s, were the first to start climbing with Kevin Dingle taking the lead. Clearly their name is ironic as they set the pace.Three MCSA veterans started up a second route known as Afternoon Ascension, opened by climbers in 1946.Jaco tried to find a new route up the wall for the two of us before accepting that it wouldn't be safe - the steep line he was exploring had no cracks in which to wedge pieces of gear to which the rope could be clipped. Once this was clear, we also went up Afternoon Ascension.The routes going up cracks, chimneys and overhangs were in the shade. About six hours later, we reached easy ground with grassy tufts and sunshine. Surprisingly, we found the precipitous descent gully without difficulty and were back at the Hanglip Mountain Lodge of Entabeni in time for sundowners.block_quotes_start I was surprised to see our cottage overlooked a small lake, to which waterbirds had flocked block_quotes_endBy the time the battered hikers arrived, we were drinking beers and watching blue wildebeest. It was dark when we got back to Vygeboom, a small game farm nearby where we were staying in cottages and tents.The campfires on Friday and Saturday night had lit up the bush but on Sunday I was surprised to see our cottage overlooked a small lake, to which waterbirds had flocked. The others had seen kudu and giraffe drinking here.After coffee, I got ready to follow Rich da Silva on a 50km mountain-bike ride which followed the southern border of Entabeni. Baby giraffe looked curiously over the fence at us, bolting when Rich sped by.Coincidentally a fortnight earlier Jaco and I had spent a weekend at Entabeni. On that occasion, we were on top of the escarpment with gorgeous views and, on a game drive, saw rhino and elephant.Entabeni is a peaceful winter retreat - apart from the one weekend a year when climbers wake up the sleeping lions.sub_head_start IF YOU GO sub_head_endWHY GO THERE: The Waterberg Biosphere Reserve in Limpopo is a warm bush escape from the Highveld winters and a World Heritage Site. This reserve has five eco-systems in 22,000ha and the diversity, even within the Entabeni Safari Conservancy (formerly the Entabeni game reserve), between the upper escarpment and plateau 600m below, is striking.story_article_right2WHAT IT HAS:Ravenside Lodge, Entabeni (Place of the Mountain): A thatched luxury lodge with a pool, Ravenside is found below Entabeni mountain. The chalets are built on stilts along the cliff's edge and are very comfortable. Driving down the steep road through the Hanglip mountain to the plains, where the lions rule, is spectacular.RATES: Winter specials are R995 per person per night including three meals and two game drives. Kids under 12 pay half.CONTACT: Phone 012-443-6700, e-mail reservation@legendlodges.co.za or visit legendhospitality.co.za.Vygeboom Game Farm: Two open-plan cottages with wide stoeps overlooking a lake. Each one has a gas stove but no fridge, a basic kitchen, a double bed and a couch. The lights are powered by batteries and the bathroom has a shower warmed by a fired-up donkey. The open grass near the lake provides comfortable camping sites.RATES: Camping R60 per person per night and wood is provided. Cottages are R550 per night.CONTACT: Phone Evi van Dyk on 073-256-1768; 083-377-5590 or e-mail evivandyk@gmail.com.GETTING THERE: Entabeni is roughly 280km from Joburg. Take the N1 north to the Mookgophong (Naboomspruit) off-ramp. Drive 8km to Mookgophong and follow the signs to Marken. After 24km, the tar road becomes gravel. Travel on this for 21.5km until you seen an Entabeni sign on the right. Drive 3.3km to the main gate. Vygeboom is a short drive away...