Readers' World: Taiwan, the time of my life

10 July 2016 - 02:00 By Derick Clegg

It’s an unusual tourist spot and Derick Clegg wasn’t expecting much, but found a stellar blend of interesting places from Danshui to Zuoying — and out-of-this-world food It was with apprehension that my wife and I watched the coastline of Taiwan approaching through the thin, early morning light as our China Airlines flight prepared for touchdown at Taipei's Taoyuan Airport.After all, our travel agent had expressed surprise at our destination - "I haven't booked any South Africans to Taiwan for ages."Our visit, apart from the wedding we were to attend, did not register highly on our anticipatory scale.story_article_left1Well, how wrong can one be? We were blown away by amazing Taiwan! From the moment we landed to our departure two weeks later, we enjoyed the most incredible sights and experiences.It helped to have a newly-acquired Chinese-speaking daughter-in-law as our tour guide. There was never a dull day. From the wedding ceremony two days after our arrival, we were constantly on the go.Our accommodation was in Danshui, a waterfront town about 35 minutes via metro rail from Taipei's CBD and a popular weekend destination.The Taiwanese have a social culture developed around the consumption of food. They are able to eat vast quantities, albeit in small portions, which left us Westerners gasping for breath.Consequently, restaurants, diners and pavement food stalls abound. These eateries cater for a variety of tastes and provide unlimited food choices. Squid in all forms appeared to be the most popular snack and is grilled or fried while you watch.The Danshui street markets were fascinating. Mostly confined to narrow streets or alleys, they sell everything from meat to fish to fowl to frogs - large, headless, skinned, plump, ready for the pot. Just add seasoning.Market stalls are packed together like cells in honeycomb. Colourful clothing and souvenir shops sit cheek-by-jowl with slabs of meat hanging from hooks, flapping fish, black-skinned chickens and mounds of fresh squid. There are hundreds of shoppers and ubiquitous scooters forcing their way through throngs of people, with never a sign of annoyance from anyone.We visited Taipei Zoo with its pandas; the Chiang Kai-Shek memorial to see the changing of the guards - an impressive display of military precision; and Building 101, formerly the tallest in the world until it was surpassed by the Dubai edifice in 2009.Next, we took the high-speed train to Zuoying, some 350km south of Taipei and adjacent to Kaohsiung, Taiwan's second-largest city and our ultimate destination.block_quotes_start Breakfast in Taiwan is different. Very different. Forget eggs and bacon block_quotes_endA quick connection by metro rail brought us to the city. The trains in Taiwan are spotlessly clean and efficiently operated.On-board electronic display panels keep passengers informed of approaching stations and, in the case of the high-speed train, the current velocity. On our trip, the maximum speed reached was 294km/ph.In Kaohsiung, apart from a second wedding celebration for family and friends who had been unable to attend the first, we toured various places of interest and, best of all, lunched at a restaurant famous for its duck dishes.Prior to the main course, an array of dishes was presented which, by themselves, were sufficient for a complete meal.The roasted duck finally arrived, whole with head on, accompanied by a showman of a chef who proceeded, with a razor-sharp cleaver, surgical precision and a large dollop of panache, to dismember the bird into consummate slices and portions and thighs - all perfectly cooked.That evening we were taken to another restaurant by the family of the bride. It was their duty to entertain us. This time it was a hot-pot of seafood cooked at the table by ourselves. Eish!Breakfast in Taiwan is different. Very different. Forget eggs and bacon. Try broccoli, bamboo fungus, lettuce, cucumber, red cabbage, noodles, corn, beans, etc. There were also some strangely prepared eggs, which we ate.Despite their eating habits, we found the people friendly and helpful. Few of the people we encountered spoke English, but smiles and nods we discovered went a long way. Then it was back to Taipei and Danshui and yet more restaurants and more food.story_article_right2Our remaining few days were spent touring the north of the island and its heritage of Dutch, Spanish and English explorers, some of whom have hospitals and landmarks named after them.On our last Sunday in Danshui, we attended a church service presided over by a priest from Zaire, resplendent in a green and gold cassock. "Welcome," he smiled, "where are you from?""South Africa", we said"Ah," he replied. "We don't get many white Africans here!"More's the pity. Just be prepared to eat copious quantities of food!• Share your travel experiences with us in 'Readers' World'. Send your photos - at least 500KB - and a story of no more than 800 words. ALL winners receive R1,000. Only winning entrants will be contacted. Email travelmag@sundaytimes.co.za..

There’s never been a more important time to support independent media.

From World War 1 to present-day cosmopolitan South Africa and beyond, the Sunday Times has been a pillar in covering the stories that matter to you.

For just R80 you can become a premium member (digital access) and support a publication that has played an important political and social role in South Africa for over a century of Sundays. You can cancel anytime.

Already subscribed? Sign in below.



Questions or problems? Email helpdesk@timeslive.co.za or call 0860 52 52 00.