This luxury safari lodge is perfect for kids

Shanthini Naidoo visits Mhondoro Game Lodge in the Waterberg, where even little children are welcome to join in the safari fun

There is a great irony that exists for children who live in Africa. By the time they're old enough to be allowed at many game lodges, they've hit that age when they're often disinterested, petulant and just plain irritating.

You might wish you could throw them to the lions.

Don't they know how special a bush holiday is?

"Embrace the experience, and get off that cellphone, there is no signal here," I imagine the admonishing.

But for little kids, who'll want to cuddle and learn and talk about all those wondrous elephants, giraffes, rhinos and lions, it is nearly impossible to view these magnificent creatures in their natural environment.

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This is for several sobering reasons, the most important being that it is dangerous to invade a wild animal's territory, particularly big cats', with the tasty and interesting little morsels that are babies and toddlers, who don't know how to sit still and not smell delicious.

But there is a middle ground emerging on the African savannah, such as at Mhondoro Game Lodge in Limpopo's Welgevonden reserve, where small children are not only accepted but especially catered for.

All we had to do as parents was survive travelling 300km with two young girls. We were well prepared for the journey, with arts and crafts, a bag of snacks, sing-a-longs, small naps and our last resort, YouTube.

In the three-hour drive from Joburg, nobody vomited, there was no screaming to get out of car seats anywhere along the N1 and we arrived relaxed at the main gate, to meet ranger Sibu Nzima. He was quick to point out the two things we desperately needed: cold chardonnay and clean restrooms.

It was another hour to the resort by game vehicle, so Nzima suggested a leg-stretch, during which he made friends with our girls, taught the three-year-old a hand puzzle, snuck oat cookies and dried mango to the baby, and refilled our glasses.

And so he set the tone for a weekend during which the children were welcome, well fed and got an age-appropriate taste of a game experience.

It is a fact that young kids can hinder the game-lodge experience for others and they don't get to do the fun bits and so are often not allowed at luxury lodges. That is a fair policy for the sake of not disturbing other guests - it is, after all, a special experience.

block_quotes_start There was game on the menu every day from crocodile carpaccio to all sorts of venison three courses artfully plated block_quotes_end

At those lodges where they are allowed, they must be babysat while the parents go on game drives, which might defeat the purpose of taking them at all. Few facilities are suited to children and they must make do with whatever they can.

There are often formal babysitting services so adults can have a romantic meal or enjoy the spa.

But, for me, one of those guilt-stricken types who cannot enjoy, for instance, watching wild elephants without wanting to share that with her children, the inclusion of little ones is a charm that I appreciate.

At Mhondoro though, this is something they excel at.

To start off, head chef Kristine Moodie will happily deviate from her high-end, artful cuisine to make child-friendly meals such as chicken and pasta, and invites kids into the kitchen to make bread rolls for dinner.

And for us adults, there was game on the menu every day, from crocodile carpaccio to all sorts of venison, three courses, artfully plated. Lunches were light, interesting salads such as quinoa and naartjie, skewers and home-made breads. Moodie also made cookies with hunks of dark chocolate and chilli cashews for the drives.

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Guests are assigned a butler. One was Elias Setlhare, who showed the patience of a saint with wily toddlers, and even a tween diva, who demanded pink lemonade every few minutes, then proceeded to spin around high on sugar until the next round. (She passed out early, most nights.)

Nzima taught our daughter to drum, told her about poison apples and aardvarks and came to call when there were elephants at the watering hole, which we could see from our suite's balcony.

Then there were the hot-water bottles that magically appeared in our beds and on drives to keep them toasty.

The lodge has a jungle gym and trampoline outside and, for rainy days, a dedicated playroom with lots of toys.

But it was the possibility of going on mini-game drives with the children that we appreciated most.

Manager Fritz Breytenbach took the time to take us on a bumble around the reserve outside the regular game-drive hours.

It works to have a later, warmer start and to avoid disturbing those guests who are there to do some serious spotting.

A bumble also means avoiding the interest of predators in our small humans, and less rigorous driving. You might miss out on seeing an early morning cheetah kill, but discovering white rhino, hippo, klipspringers, buck and birds with enthralled kiddies is good enough. In fact, you could just give them binoculars and they would look at grass with fascination.

Of course, that isn't to say you will not have adult time. While they napped - as only children can, on an open game vehicle - Breytenbach showed us something for adults to appreciate.

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We'd roared to the peak of a koppie when the game vehicle stopped suddenly. He had spotted something. Could it be an elusive big cat, a water buffalo, a rare wild dog?

The camera was unpacked and we hastily removed the scarves protecting us from the chilly valley, scouting like meerkats, but seeing nothing.

"It is a Pierneef," said Breytenbach.

I had to readjust my eyes, zoom out from searching for the specific to take in the broader picture. A curved V, the meeting of mountains at the end of a gravelled road, dappled autumn colours; purple, orange, red and forest green.

Breytenbach was showing off Welgevonden's prettiness. The scenes of Limpopo's Waterberg were possibly captured on canvas and definitely stole the heart of the famed, wandering artist.

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While the animals - Big 5 and more on the reserve - are often the object of a game drive and it might be disappointing to not spot them, spectators do sometimes miss the bush for the trees.

Breytenbach reminded us that the flora is the most diverse on the planet. Nowhere else in the world would human eyes be exposed to the plenty in the African bush, never mind the animals that live in it.

As it's one of only two commercial properties on the 35000ha reserve, the idea is to take nature in unobtrusively.

The lodge is ultimately indulgent, a once-in-a-lifetime spoil, yet the ethos is subtlety.

It's clearly succeeding in blending in with its stone-toned, modern design and sprawling balconies for just 20 guests in secluded rooms because the elephants, baboons, warthogs and zebras were comfortable to visit the man-made watering hole, metres from the lodge.

At dinner, we heard slurping from the infinity pool. An ellie nicknamed Mr T for his moodiness, lifts the pool cover to take in his nightcap. Delight, all round.

With the kids running around, you can lounge on the deck and take in the wildlife throughout the day.

On our first evening, we spotted a party of at least 30, going on at the watering hole. We watched astounded from our balcony in dressing gowns (they appeared suddenly at bath time). After lunch, a family of baboons, warthogs and zebras idled by.

The Dutch owners Frank and Miriam Vogel also had the brilliant idea of creating a hide at the end of a 65m tunnel from the lodge, which opens up at eye level to the watering hole.

block_quotes_start And if we ever doubted the worth of taking kids somewhere they may not remember in a few years, just ask our child where her favourite place is block_quotes_end

The vantage point places guests 2m from the beasts, to observe in safety, without disturbance. If you do, as our three-year-old discovered, the elephants might shush a little squeal with a firm spray from their trunks.

In summer, a warm night on the star deck with purpose-built seating to lean back and gaze would be a way to wind down. In winter, it's all roaring fireplaces, libraries and cigar bars.

The Saturday night bonfire at the boma with food, wine and music was memorable. Our toddler drummed her own little tune around the fire, thrilled and satiated.

And if we ever doubted the worth of taking kids somewhere they may not remember in a few years, just ask our child where her favourite place in the world is. - Naidoo was a guest of Mhondoro Game Lodge

sub_head_start A GREAT WINTER DEAL sub_head_end

Special offer: Mhondoro is currently offering a “Pay for two nights, stay for three” until September 2016.

Their mid-week winter rate is from R3, 700 per person sharing per night. This includes meals, soft drinks, local beers and select house wines, twice-daily game drives or walks and scheduled transfers from Welgevonden main gate.

Kids under 2 stay free and there’s a 50% discount for kids 2 – 9.

Contacts: Phone 087 -150 - 2314, e-mail res@mhondoro.com or visit mhondoro.com.

sub_head_start OTHER GREAT SPOTS FOR BABES IN THE BUSH sub_head_end

1) Jaci’s Lodges in Madikwe Game Reserve, North West, have several accommodation options including family suites, treehouses and tents. Jaci and Jan van Heteren raised their own family in Madikwe and offer children’s photographic safaris; a games room; a childfriendly menu; and family game drives on which kids aged 6-12 are welcome.

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For younger children, parents have the option to book a “Jungle Drive” or stay in one of the two luxury suites that come with their own game vehicle. These guests are free to take children of any age on drives and choose their own safari times. See jacislodges.co.za.

2) Riverdene Family Lodge at Shamwari Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape has a Kids on Safari programme. While children under 4 can’t go on game drives, Shamwari is behind several awareness centres that can help your safari double as a great educational moment for children, including an Animal Rehabilitation Centre and a Rhino Awareness Centre. They also have a pool; supervised play room and jungle gym; games; a special kids’ menu; and child-minding service. Phone 042 - 203 - 1111 or seeshamwari.com.

3) River Bend Lodge in the Addo Elephant National Park has a range of activities for children, from baking with the chef to a mini-rangers programme. There’s also babysitting, a kiddies’ menu, kids’ DVDs and specialised treatments at the spa. See riverbendlodge.co.za.

4) Bakubung Bush Lodge and Kwa Maritane in the Pilanesberg have a Junior Rangers programme for children aged 6-12, built around activities that encourage learning and a love for nature. As for game drives, Bakubung will allocate a vehicle specifically for families with young children. See legacyhotels.co.za.

5) Jock Safari Lodge in the Kruger has a three-room standalone lodge for families called Fitzpatrick's Lodge at Jock. The lodge offers several activities for children including mini-chefs’ training, a visit to the Stevenson Hamilton museum in Skukuza (with a closed-vehicle game drive en route), junior ranger training and a night walk in the camp. See jocksafarilodge.com.

- Elizabeth Sleith