A marvelous musical cruise on the Danube

11 September 2016 - 02:00 By James Bedding

A ‘Sound of Music’ singalong tour on Uniworld’s luxurious River Beatrice strikes an unexpected chord with James Bedding We were in the library, sailing up the Danube and singing songs from The Sound of Music, led by Captain von Trapp's real granddaughter, Elisabeth von Trapp.Actually, I was listening, too shy to join the other novices: four young women who could with conviction sing "I am 16 going on 17". It was when they got to the line: "Totally unprepared am I to face a world of men", that I saw, through the window, we were passing a stretch of riverbank frequented by naturists and silently urged the singers: "Don't look now - you'll be put off for life."The presence of Von Trapp was the musical flourish on a journey already strong on the arts. The cruise would take us from Budapest via a medley of historic cities to the German border, and included an excursion to Salzburg, the main location for the film adaptation of the Rodgers and Hammerstein musical.story_article_left1To celebrate the film's 50th anniversary last year, Uniworld invited Elisabeth to accompany two of its Enchanting Danube cruises. She enjoyed it so much she came back for more.Eagerness to sign up star guests is just one sign of how cruise lines are evolving - and booming. When I boarded Uniworld's River Beatrice ship in Budapest, I was surprised at the number of sleek cruise vessels on the river, with names like Monet, Beethoven and Nimrod.At a welcome concert for passengers, Von Trapp sang songs from the film, accompanying herself on the guitar. She told anecdotes about her family, the home they'd made in Vermont after they'd left Austria in 1938, and their life as touring singers. Later, she hosted an afternoon tea at which two dancers in Viennese ball regalia taught us the waltz. The cruise also featured musical recitals, theatre sketches and lectures to prime us for the shore excursions.Budapest and Bratislava were new cities for me, so in each case I took the "first-timers'" option. We explored the art nouveau opulence of the Hungarian capital and the cobbled streets of its petite Slovakian counterpart, as local guides coloured in the detail.By the time we hit Vienna on day three, however, my brain was starting to jam. As our coach glided past a humbling concentration of world-class opera houses, theatres, concert halls and museums, I felt overwhelmed.As the guide led us into the city centre on foot, the only words I could take in were "1100 coffee shops" - with the unspoken subtext of "cake". I peeled away from the group and found a coffee house, the last place Mozart performed in public as a pianist, a few doors from his final home, where he died in 1791. I contemplated his genius with a slice of Café Frauenhuber's speciality: a slice of heaven stuffed with apple and poppy seeds.On board, relaxed chats over meals at big round tables with families and couples from Hong Kong, Qatar and Canada proved to be a trip highlight. Around three-quarters of the 130 passengers were from the US, but we comprised 13 nationalities in all. The words "semi-retired" came up frequently, although there was nothing "semi" about these travellers' energy or sense of adventure.block_quotes_start Life is opening up. I'm daring to go beyond my own boundaries. As we travel, we cross borders all the time block_quotes_endDuring the cruise, I joined an afternoon group cycle tour along the riverbank. I also took advantage of the early-morning activities. We did yoga on the roof of the ship, saluting the sun as it rose above the Danube plain.In Vienna, we went Nordic walking along the riverbank. The following day, as the boat followed the twisting river between wooded hillsides, we performed the Five Tibetan Rites of Rejuvenation. Just three of us: none of the other guests seemed to want rejuvenating.I mentioned the fact at breakfast. Hal, an 83-year-old from Ohio, said: "Saving my energy for the bike ride later: 28km up the river, temperature forecast to be 40°C, don't want to overdo it. You joining us?" I made my excuses. Hal's business card read "Apex Enjoyment Co."Reg, 81, from Adelaide, said it was important to stay in shape in middle age. "Scientists now agree that middle age is from 60-90," he added. As Reg is a semi-retired gynaecologist, we believed him. And I was feeling younger by the day.full_story_image_hleft1Still, I stuck to my plan and enjoyed the barbecue on the sun deck as we glided up the Wachau Valley, a picturesque stretch of the Danube. From Linz, coaches took us to Salzburg for a day trip. Before a singalong on the steps in the Mirabell Palace gardens - film location for the closing bars of Do-Re-Mi - Elisabeth sang in the palace chapel, where the echoing acoustics matched her pure, bell-like voice perfectly."That gave me goose bumps," one passenger said later.I saw her on board tutoring some young singers from the US and Indonesia and Singapore. At the final evening singalong, they performed with confidence.Von Trapp originally trained in music, theatre and education. After running a fashion business for 25 years, she decided to explore her own creativity - and now tours as a musician."I'm finding that life is opening up," she told me. "I'm daring to go beyond my own boundaries. And as we travel, we cross borders all the time."Her husband, Ed Hall, quit a legal career to accompany her on this adventure as her full-time manager/producer.full_story_image_hleft2I thought back to the film: to the mother superior urging Maria to "climb every mountain. till you find your dream"; to the future Frau von Trapp leaving the convent having "confidence in confidence alone"; and to the real Von Trapps, who fled and became refugees in a distant land.On that first morning in the library, I had envied the enthusiasm of those young singers. I had stopped singing at the age of six when I was thrown out of the school choir for "growling". As I prepared to join the cruise, I wondered: could this be a chance to make amends?Back home, I signed up for singing lessons and joined a choir. Now and again, as I walk along, I find myself singing: "I am 54 going on 55. baby, you're on the brink." I really believe it. HOW TO CRUISE THE DANUBE sub_head_endThe Danube is the longest river in the European Union, rising in Germany's Black Forest and flowing 3200km - and through 10 countries - to the Black Sea.The river has been many things - a frontier, a source of myths, a means of transport and a place where massive sturgeon once ruled. And until pacified by a dam, the furious rapids where the river squeezed through the Iron Gates in Romania made the river unnavigable throughout.Today, though, cruise ships voyage from the Black Sea to beyond Passau on the upper section of the river with itineraries ranging from a few days to more than two weeks.full_story_image_hleft3The following operators all offer cruises with Uniworld, the line mentioned in the story: Imagine Cruising (imaginecruising.co.za, 0861-155-5545), Cruiseabout (087-740-5051) and Uniworld (011-280-8450).READER OFFER: 2016 departure on the River BeatriceBook by the end of September and save R21,200 per person on Uniworld's Danube Holiday Markets cruise. From R38,150 per person sharing, you will have eight days on the River Beatrice cruising the Danube from Budapest to Passau on an all-inclusive basis.Six days of excursions are also included, along with internet and wi-fi access on board. This cruise departs December 2 and takes in the Christmas Markets of the area.- The Daily Telegraph..

There’s never been a more important time to support independent media.

From World War 1 to present-day cosmopolitan South Africa and beyond, the Sunday Times has been a pillar in covering the stories that matter to you.

For just R80 you can become a premium member (digital access) and support a publication that has played an important political and social role in South Africa for over a century of Sundays. You can cancel anytime.

Already subscribed? Sign in below.



Questions or problems? Email helpdesk@timeslive.co.za or call 0860 52 52 00.