The modern and traditional merge perfectly in Abu Dhabi, where Claire Keeton discovers there's a mind-blowing range of things to do If you take a flight within the Persian Gulf, you may find yourself seated next to a falcon. Falcons have their own passports in the United Arab Emirates and are treated like royalty.But even the fastest bird in the world, the peregrine falcon, can't match the speed of an Etihad Airways flight and or how the crew cater to the whims of every passenger.On the other hand, if you were on a flight this week you could have seen one of the world's fastest drivers on his way to compete in the Formula1 Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix.story_article_left1And if you want your own experience of unsurpassed speed, try the fastest rollercoaster in the world at Ferrari World Abu Dhabi - F1 stars like Alexander Rossi compare its acceleration to what they feel on the racetrack.Going that fast is sensational. You hardly have time to take a breath and you're racing out from the indoor platform at 240km/h with the sky a blur.When the rollercoaster, called the Formula Rossa, slows down to go into a loop, you're still hurtling along upside down but it feels like you are moving in slow motion.In contrast, the "virtual reality" trip through Italy, another popular ride at Ferrari World, is leisurely. This is a 4-D experience during which you turn onto hairpin bends and soar over lakes and ancient sites.Those two rides were all we had time for at the world's biggest indoor theme park but families spend all day there and at the nearby Yas Waterworld, which has 43 rides and slides.full_story_image_hleft1Fast rides and slow camels are part of Abu Dhabi life, symbolising how modern and traditional ways merge in this emirate which is roughly half a century old.Our gracious guide, Mohammed Farah from the Abu Dhabi Tourism & Cultural Authority, said: "Abu Dhabi grew on pearl diving, fishing and dates."Now it is a wealthy oil state, one of seven in the United Arab Emirates.Gleaming mosaics of camels and date palms decorate walls along the city freeways, which pass unusual buildings including one shaped like a coin.Three more architectural landmarks are going up on the cultural hub of Saadiyat Island: the Louvre Abu Dhabi, the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, which will host international exhibitions, and the Zayed National Museum.story_article_right2Abu Dhabi is the capital of the United Arab Emirates and occupies more than 80% of its landmass, which is mostly desert.On the way to an Arabian village in the desert, we passed dozens of camels and our driver took us dune bashing, racing up and down the steep slopes and along the ridges.This is a popular recreational pursuit among Emiratis, Farah said.At the tourist village you can, as we did, switch to a camel for a different perspective, and after that to sandboards, which seem to glide quickly over the fine, reddish sand.The desert cooled down swiftly once the sun had set and we got henna tattoos while listening to a man sing poetry and play traditional tunes on his oud, a traditional string instrument.A feast of Middle Eastern dishes extended our culinary experiences far beyond the prawns (biggest in the world, almost) we had eaten at the port; the saffron ice cream; and the dates from the sprawling date market.As the stars came out, a mesmerising belly dancer took over the stage.The flamboyant show was unlike any of the other encounters we'd had with women in Abu Dhabi, where it is common for them to cover up in abayas.Tourists may dress as they wish, except at religious sites such as the Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque, where I joined the line to don an abaya to cover my hair and skin before entering.This mosque is truly grand: white marble inlaid with precious-stone mosaics and mother-of-pearl, pillars topped with gold leaf; 82 domes; chandeliers with Italian crystals weighing up to 12 tons; and the biggest handmade Persian carpet in the world.Devout Muslims across the UAE come to pray at the mosque, which can accommodate 40,000 worshippers.full_story_image_hleft2Another reason Emiratis visit Abu Dhabi - glitzy Dubai with its skyscrapers is only 125km away - is to get specialist care for their falcons, which can cost up to $100,000 (over R1,4 million) each.The award-winning Falcon Hospital offers a unique veterinary service.On any morning, men inkeffiyehs arrive in smart cars with falcons wearing ornate hoods balanced on their wrists.By the time we went on a guided tour around the hospital/beauty salon, there were six men in the waiting room with 28 falcons on perches in their own waiting room.Most of them are day visitors checked in for treatments, like trimming their nails, rather than emergencies like broken feathers.We didn't feel their talons when we held one on a leather glove but their eyes were piercing once the hood was off.sub_head_start 5 TOP THINGS TO EXPERIENCE IN ABU DHABI sub_head_end1) Rub' Al Khali, or Empty Quarter, is the biggest sand desert in the world2) The more than 200 islands along 400km of coastline -with all those white beaches3) The theme parks, with dozens of wild and inventive rides4) Arabian culture, including the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, ancient forts and oasis towns5) Art, architecture and extravagant landmarks such as the Emirates Palacefull_story_image_hleft3sub_head_start PLAN YOUR TRIP sub_head_endSOUTHERN SUN ABU DHABIWHAT IT HAS: The Southern Sun Abu Dhabi is a four-star hotel. Its in-house Foundry and Kahraman restaurants serve a range of excellent dishes. The hotel’s Blu Sky Lounge & Grill won the 2016 Best Sports Bar, TimeOut Abu Dhabi Nightlife Award. The gym and pool deck on the 27th floor have panoramic viewsRATES: R1,195 per person sharing per night including breakfast. Two kids under 18 stay free when sharing with two adults. Ts & Cs apply.CONTACT: Visit Tsogosun.commini_story_image_hleft4ETIHAD'S DREAMLINER WHERE EVEN ECONOMY CLASS IS LUXURYFlying business class on Etihad Airways in their new Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner is a luxurious experience.Even economy-class passengers get the benefit of this elegant airline, which offers "flying nannies" as one of its services.I've travelled to nearly 60 countries by foot, bike, train and plane but never before flown business class and I was astonished at the serenity and comfort.I was offered champagne before take off and then settled into my spacious "business studio".Besides the pneumatic seat controls, which include massage and a flat bed, I had writing space and an 18-inch (46cm) touch-screen TV with noise-cancelling headphones.The on-board entertainment included seven live channels and 750 hours of movies (from many genres).I had the best tuna pavé I've ever tasted and the Merlot Château Reynon 2014 matched the food.An impressive number of languages are spoken by the cabin crew, all of which they announced before takeoff.The Dreamliner prides itself on having cleaner air and the configuration of the economy class is three-three-three, allowing more aisle access for passengers. The seats have adjustable headrests and cushions with wide seats (48cm) and all windows dim with touch.From Johannesburg to Abu Dhabi the flight took less than eight hours. For the first time ever, I wished it were longer.• Keeton was a guest of Etihad Airways & Southern Sun Abu Dhabi...