Weekend Escape: Seaside House, near Gouritsmond

04 December 2016 - 02:00 By Nick Yell

Nick Yell braves a bumpy ride to go off-grid in a little house by the sea In these days of computerised everything and constant connectivity, it's essential to break the bonds of technological enslavement.It's easy when it's self-imposed and you know that, if you're desperate for a fix of connectivity, it's only 12km away, along a coastal track fringed with orange rocks and a cobalt sea.story_article_left1Some may think 375km is a long way to go for a dose of Neo-Luddism, particularly when it entails bouncing an adventure motorcycle along some badly eroded gravel roads and it takes you most of the day to get there.But, of course, it's not a hardship for those of us who love the freedom of riding motorcycles while being immersed in the fecundity of our natural surrounds.The southern Cape coastline between Stilbaai and Vleesbaai is well endowed with historical and natural bounty.The discoveries of early man's artefacts in nearby Blombos Cave, some engraved with geometric patterns dated at more than 70,000 years old, have shown scientists that early man was able to perform tasks requiring complicated abstract thinking far earlier than previously thought.These same "first people" lived mainly off the shellfish they found outside their front door.Much later, the Khoikhoi set up stone fish pens that trapped fish when the tide went out. But, placed as they were along the fertile banks of the Gourits River, the Gouriqua were better known by the early Portuguese explorers as custodians of some of the best conditioned cattle they'd ever seen.Hence Bartolomeu Dias named the bay Angra dos Vaqueiros (Bay of the Cowherds) and later, after Vasco da Gama arrived in 1497 and was able to set up good trading relations with the Gouriqua, the region ended up with such place names as Vleesbaai (a corruption of Vleisbaai) and Cape Vacca (Cape of Cows).Thus far, the backroads ride in from Bot River had taken in the golden tapestries of shorn wheat fields; a crossing of the Breede River at Malgas on the last hand-drawn pont in SA; and lunch on the viewing deck of the Breede River Lodge.Then it was on through the hamlet of Vermaaklikheid on the banks of the Duiwenhoks River, thumping over the coastal-hugging dirt track to Jongensfontein, just outside Stilbaai.After some smooth respite on the tar, we crossed the bridge over the Goukou River. Until 1955, when the bridge was built, you also had to use a pont to cross this river. Five kilometres out of town, we found the turn-off to Gouritsmond - our second-last dirt track for the day.block_quotes_start [The wave] crashed through the front door, burst into the kitchen, and put out the fire in the coal-stove block_quotes_endThe ride was accompanied by sunbursts of pincushion proteas, verdant hills, tussocky hummocks, littorals of orange rocks spattered with spume and the air rushing into our helmets, bursting with the tang of the sea.My inspiration for seeking out a no-frills beach bungalow had come from a re-read of Lawrence Green's South African Beachcomber.His strandhuisie in the Blaauwberg Strand of the late 1940s was so close to the sea that a wave once "crashed through the front door, burst into the kitchen, and put out the fire in the coal-stove".Having arrived at Seaside House on Borrelfontein Farm, an underarm stone's throw away from the sea, I knew Green would have been very happy here; as was I.sub_head_start Plan your trip sub_head_endWHERE IT IS: Seaside House on Borrelfontein Farm is 12km west of Gouritsmond.WHAT IT HAS: This old "pre-fab" house is rustic and sparsely furnished, but is comfortable nevertheless. It has no electricity, but gas water-heating and cooking facilities are provided, as are paraffin lanterns for lighting.There are two bedrooms (both with sea views, but you need to bring your own bedding), one with three single beds and the other a double bed. There is one bathroom, a kitchen with utensils for self-catering, and a large lounge-cum-dining room (with another single bed) with splendid sea views.WHY GO THERE: Primarily to relax like sea-loving Neo-Luddites like to but this coastline is also renowned for its excellent fishing. Other activities include: walking for miles along the coastal dirt track, swimming in pristine rock pools, taking a drive to the historic Fransmanshoek peninsula near Vleesbaai, enjoying a game drive as a day-visitor to the Big Five Garden Route Game Lodge or visiting the Aloe factory shops in Albertinia.THE FOOD: Self-catering only, but there are a couple of restaurants in nearby Gouritsmond.RATES: R500 per day for the house and an additional R20 per person - maximum of six.CONTACT: Helen Leibel on 082-576-7749 or 087-702-9334...

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