Board a barge to explore the glories of Southern France on a budget

15 January 2017 - 02:00 By Allison Foat
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Allison Foat and some friends share an adventure down the Canal du Midi in Southern France

Once I didn't know a cleat from a pleat or a bilge from a bulge. Now I am fluent in boat speak - thanks to a barging adventure down the Canal du Midi in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of Southern France.

Barging is a marvellous way to holiday. There is little that beats easing along calm waters through a region oozing with medieval history, with whiffs of fermenting grapes punctuating the breeze.

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The idea to build a navigable canal linking the Atlantic to the Mediterranean was first bandied about by great names such as Charlemagne; and even Leonardo da Vinci was commissioned as far back as 1516 to survey a possible route.

But it was Pierre-Paul Riquet from Bèziers who got the job done by Royal Edict. Between 1667 and 1681, he engaged a workforce of 12,000 and completed the task, which included the construction of 91 oval-shaped locks.

Winding from Provence to the Pyrenees and down to the Spanish border, the canal is the world's oldest commercial waterway. Meandering under bridges, through tunnels and past aqueducts, it courses through prime wine country with almost 700,000ha under vine. The lush landscape is dotted with abodes from grand chateaux and villas to humble stone cottages.

My journey to the Canal du Midi began with three friends and a four-hour train trip from Paris to the Carcassonne, a town in two parts that consists of La Cité, an imposing citadel on a hilltop, and Bastide Saint Louis, the lower town often overlooked by tourists focused on the castle.

With 52 towers ringed by two concentric walls, narrow cobbled lanes, ramparts and wells, La Cité is, after the Eiffel Tower, the most visited spot in France. It's a fine example of Roman, Medieval and Gothic architecture on a massive scale.

Our starting point was the boat base in Trèbes, 15 minutes from Carcassonne by cab. On arrival, after the mandatory "boating 101", we loaded bicycles on board and pushed off from the dock, puttering down towards the first of 18 locks along our route.

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Key in this type of vacation is to travel with a great group of friends who are up for a bout of teamwork. The beauty of the Trèbes to Narbonne route is that it is a slow voyage. With a mere 53km to cover in seven days, there is ample opportunity to explore along the way. Schedules are replaced with spontaneity and the most complex decisions involve where to moor, which castle to visit and what to eat and drink and when.

At the end of each day, we would find an idyllic spot to moor, usually beneath a row of old plane trees, 45000 of which were planted by Riquet. The boat needed to be close enough to allow a breakfast cycle to the local boulangerie and far enough from the nearest village for optimum peace and quiet.

As the sun dipped each evening, we'd pop open bottles of local wines and feast on baguettes, charcuterie and cheese.

One particularly exquisite memory I have is of an early morning cruise through a veil of fine, grey mist hovering over the canal. As the boat cut noiselessly through the water, the sun began to rise and the fog melted away in the warmth.

block_quotes_start For South Africans feeling the pinch, barging is a way to pool resources and enjoy a stint through one of the most glorious parts of France block_quotes_end

The canal offers something unique at every turn. Quaint cafés at locks such as Puichéric beckon with friendly keepers selling craft beer, wine and local fare. At Aiguille, lock keeper Joël Barthès has made a name for himself with his quirky sculptures that line the banks, fashioned from iron and wood found in the nearby forest.

From Homps, one of the boat bases, we cycled to Olonzac, lured by the weekly market (Tuesday mornings only) selling irresistible delicacies such as home-made pistachio nougat. The town is alive with the sounds of accordion music.

A unique way to tour off deck is in a classic convertible Citroën 2CV, for hire in Paraza in the beautiful Minervois region. Take a scenic 20km drive to Minerve, said to be one of South France's most picturesque villages, perched on a rocky outcrop above a deep canyon. Dripping in Middle Ages siege drama, the hamlet boasts its own Michelin-starred restaurant, Relais Chantovent.

The old harbour of Le Somail warrants a longer stay. It has loads to see, including Le Trouve Tout du Livre bookshop, stocked with more than 50,000 books from rare editions to cheap paperbacks.

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The La Nouvelle branch of the Canal du Midi sails towards the Mediterranean along the Canal de la Robine.

Narbonne, the last stop on this particular route, is a stunning finale to the trip with much to see, including the vast Les Halles produce market; the Archbishops' Palace; the incomplete Gothic Cathédrale St-Just; the Donjon Gilles Aycelin, a tower with sensational views; and the Roman Horreum, a fascinating underground warehouse.

Being so close to Spain (Narbonne was once part of Catalonia) and Spanish influence is prevalent throughout the town in the architecture, language, culture and food.

For South Africans feeling the pinch, barging is a way to pool resources and enjoy a stint through one of the most glorious parts of France, if not the world.

sub_head_start PLAN YOUR TRIP sub_head_end

HOW TO GET THERE: You can book a train from Paris to Carcassonne with Rail Europe via worldtravel.co.za.

BOAT OPERATOR: Le Boat - leboat.co.za.

COSTS: Le Boat has trip options throughout Europe, including 37 suggested itineraries on the Canal du Midi. Here, you could even do a three-to-five night trip priced from R10,845 for the boat for three nights.

The trip in this story is priced R24,345 to R74,318 for the boat for seven nights.

WHEN TO GO: April to early October.

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