Take a drive on the wild side: Kruger’s adventurous new 4x4 Eco Trail

Marion Whitehead was part of a group of women who let their hair down on some little-travelled tracks in northern Kruger Park

The howl of hyenas was bloodcurdling enough to instantly silence the tipsy talk around our campfire. It sounded as if they were just the other side of the kitchen awning, where we'd filled our plates with food hot off the braai a little earlier. People paled visibly, even in the flickering firelight.

"They're just letting us know they're here," said Hein Grobler, SANParks' general manager of the Wild Card programme, who had come to chat to us. "This is their space and we should respect them."

We didn't need convincing that going alone to the waterless toilet tucked away behind some bushes was not advisable. This was a different Kruger National Park to the one usually enjoyed by visitors, one that was as wild and remote as that experienced by pioneers travelling here 100 years ago.

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Our group of "wild women" on the Mafunyane 4x4 Eco Trail, Kruger's newest offering for those wanting something a little different from the usual tourist routes, was finding our adventure more than met expectations.

The first two days after our convoy of Isuzu KB300 4x4s left Phalaborwa Gate were characterised by heat and dust as the veld had already dried out after the season's first rains. We followed our guide and ranger in their vehicles on management tracks that traversed rough terrain, crossing numerous dry riverbeds.

There seemed to be buffalo around every corner and the once-dry sticks that were mopani trees were green again, creating a massive salad bar for hungry elephants. Crossing the Letaba River on a low causeway bridge gave us the chance to watch these giants cavorting in cool water. Those in our group intent on ticking off the big five thought they were doing well.

Expert guide Vanessa Strydom was teaching us to read the bush. "Plenty of game trails crossing the road along here - they indicate where the waterholes are," she said over the radio linking the vehicles. Then came the alert we'd all been waiting for.

"Leopard in the tree on my right," crackled her voice over the radio. Excitedly I scanned the branches but saw no feline form. "Leopard orchid," Strydom added mischievously and I realised the untidy epiphyte in the fork of the tree had flowers on it. "Probably rarer than the mammal," she added.

We bagged our next cat further down the same road. "Lion on the left," announced Strydom, deadpan. Turned out to be pretty lion's eye flowers. By now we were getting the hang of Strydom's sense of humour. My turn was next.

"Watch out for the leopard crossing the road," I warned, then added: "Leopard tortoise."

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One of the best things about the trail was the rustic bush camps. They're unfenced spots under magnificent riverside trees and have the barest of facilities: a fireplace, a couple of waterless loos and shower enclosures where you can rig up your bag or bucket of warm water to wash off the day's dust. You bring all your own equipment, food, fuel and water and experience wild Africa as it's been for centuries. You can spend the evenings sitting around the fire contemplating the stars and hope the hyenas have something else on their menu.

Our diverse group, however, were being treated by the SANParks honorary rangers to a fully catered trail. The guys rigged our tents and a few fancy caravans each night and got the braai going so we could just shower and park off with a cold drink and swop tales of the day's sightings.

block_quotes_start We drove out on slushy tracks marvelling at new blades of green grass, nibbled by scrawny impala that were slowly regaining condition block_quotes_end

It rained on the second night: soft, soaking rejuvenating rains that changed the whole outlook of the park, adding to the transformation of northern Kruger after one of the fiercest droughts in living memory had shrivelled up most of the vegetation.

We drove out on slushy tracks marvelling at new blades of green grass, nibbled by scrawny impala that were slowly regaining condition and had dropped the first dainty lambs of the season.

There was mud, glorious mud everywhere and it wasn't long before we had the opportunity to test our Isuzus' 4x4 capabilities. The Mphongolo River wasn't yet running, but the treacherous banks of black cotton mud were steep.

Strydom in our lead vehicle powered through the dip and then the wheels did their own thing and she slid sideways into a small donga. Her wheels spun helplessly and we were forced to pile out and do a recovery once Karien Keet, our ranger, had checked the area for dangerous beasts.

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Running around in a fine drizzle packing rocks on a muddy slope in a big five game reserve may not be everyone's idea of fun, but it turned out to be the highlight of our bush adventure. Adrenaline flowed as each driver tackled our private obstacle course and we celebrated our success with a picnic under a shady jackalberry tree.

We felt wild and free - a rush only a real bush adventure can bring - and we had a fund of tales to tell when we returned to the tame old 'burbs. This is definitely a must-do for every nature lover's bucket list.

sub_head_start PLAN YOUR TRIP sub_head_end

WHAT IT IS: The four-day Mafunyane 4x4 Eco Trail leaves from Phalaborwa Gate at 12 noon on Thursdays with a guide and a ranger in their own vehicles and traverses the area between the Olifants and Luvuvhu rivers with a maximum of five guest vehicles. The first two nights are spent at Nyarhi and Mafunyane bush camps with basic facilities: fireplace, waterless toilets and shower enclosures. The third night is at Shidzivani, an honorary rangers' camp with safari tents.

The 270km trail ends on Sunday morning at the Punda Maria Camp. It operates only during the dry season from March to November.

WHAT TO BRING: You need a 4x4 and must be completely self-sufficient - bring all your own water for drinking, cooking and washing, food, firewood and camping gear. Remember to take malaria precautions.

COST: R6,000 per vehicle (maximum of four people, no children under 12 years).

CONTACT: SANParks Central Reservations 012-428-9111, reservations@sanparks.org, sanparks.org. Also honorary rangers sanparksvolunteers.org or see Wild Card wildcard.co.za

• Marion Whitehead was a guest of SANParks Honorary Rangers.