If you go down south

A Palhota has moved to Regents Park and still serves the good Afro-Portuguese food it always has, in a house adorned with painted palms.

Fierce food

I was so sad when Porto-Mozambican joint a Palhota closed its doors in the inner- city after decades of trade. I loved that a good meal could be followed by the buying of petersham ribbon a block or two south, with satin tuxedos for four-year-olds almost around the corner, and much more besides.

But I also like a trip under the flyovers, past the mine dumps and into the heart of the southern suburbs.

A Palhota has moved to Regents Park and still serves the good Afro-Portuguese food it always has, in a house adorned with painted palms. The Mozambican waitresses are friendly yet fierce, and are of the strong opinion (an opinion I myself share) that the customer is seldom right. They are so charming and disarming that you don't mind it.

We were roundly berated for not finishing every mouthful of our delicious food (giblets, bean soup, seafood) and the remains were spooned into an unasked-for takeaway container, while the cost of the food per spoonful was explained to us.

The more interesting, truly Mozambican dishes - peanuty spinach, crab curry and other delights - aren't on the written menu, but our waitress promised they'll be made especially for you if you phone ahead. For Sunday lunches, there is a full-on chicken and fish grill. No need to book, apparently, just pitch up at 9 Augusta Road, Regent's Park, Johannesburg. Call 011-435-0813.

Pine nuts go nuts

The price of really good pine nuts is R1500/kg now. The mediocre ones are coming in at R700/kg. That makes pesto a pricey pasta topping. At this price, you want to eat them like caviar, not throw them into the processor to fight their blurred way through other high-octane ingredients - basil, parmesan, garlic - to get your attention. That's like making caviar cottage pie (sort of).

Replacement with other nuts is the only answer for all but the landed gentry. You need to be careful which nuts you use though. Almonds and walnuts work best in a classic pesto; all other nuts can be weird and intrusive.

The other pesto alternative, excellent on pasta, potatoes or spread on good bread (and totally nut-free) is this brilliant rosemary pesto. For about four servings: ½ cup super-fresh rosemary leaves (no stems) / 1 ½ cups Italian (flat-leaf) parsley, tightly packed / 1 tbsp crushed garlic / ¾ cup grated parmesan or pecorino / dash of chilli oil or few slices Thai chilli / 1 tbsp lemon juice / 1 ½ tbsp extra virgin olive oil / salt and ground black pepper to taste (usually more salt than you expect). Process all except salt and pepper to a coarse paste. Season. Store in the fridge.

• Burgener is chef at The Leopard