A bowl of noodles is painted on a dark wall near a locked staircase. It is the only clue from the seedy pavement. But then you wind inside, past the smoker's haze of Lefty's Dive Bar, up rickety stairs, to Downtown Ramen.
People are seated at wooden tables. This is comfortably grungy, urban Cape Town. The spot only opened in July and already carries a hint of CBD grime.
Straightforward food attracts young couples or groups popping out for mid-week suppers. It's mostly T-shirts and jeans, perhaps a few collared shirts and beanies. Mind you, in this matchbox venue there is a steaming kitchen and no fans. My advice would be to dress light. A chalkboard lists dishes and clued-up waiters do the rest. Skip the wine (glasses are stumpy); Japanese or local beers taste better with Asian food.
As the name implies, Downtown Ramen serves uncomplicated noodle broths. Asian bau (R35) makes for a good snack, steamed into flatbreads with three fillings: braised beef short- rib partners chilli-cucumber pickle; tender meat top-heavy on salty soya sauce marinade; and char sui pork bau, lean, smoky pork with zesty citrus-cucumber pickle.
Asian cultures value noodles. They're comforting and associated with long lives and health. Counter seats offer glimpses of noodle dishes being assembled in voluminous ceramic bowls with lids.
Capetonians ordering a meat or vegetarian noodle broth (R65) won't be disappointed. The shoyu pork belly is slow-braised and fattily rich. Vegetarian miso broth is lighter with sesame oil hints and firm, soy-sozzled tofu blocks.
As a waiter jokes when bringing the bill: "Now you can go home, watch a kung fu movie and fall asleep on the couch".
- Downtown Ramen, 103 Harrington Street, Cape Town. Call 021-461-0407. Open 6pm to 10pm, Monday to Saturday. No reservations
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