Grind On: Turn up for a full-bodied Gautemalan

12 November 2014 - 02:14 By Kim Maxwell
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SHADES OF GREY: The new Haas
SHADES OF GREY: The new Haas
Image: HALDEN KROG

When this micro-roaster originally launched in the Bo-Kaap it offered cosy nooks for coffee and a chat.

But Haas's talking point has always been that you could order the world's priciest kopi luwak coffee beans, their rarity value created through their having been excreted by civets.

Since Haas moved to Buitenkant Street, in September, kopi luwak has remained on the menu at R110 a cup.

But the majority of coffee kilograms link to the bean chalked on the board that day.

Haas coffees are single-origin Arabica, aside from The Three Sisters blend. Single-origin 250g packs sell for R72.

My Americano (R18) was rich and flavourful. The waiter specified Colombian beans but my coffee turned out to be a fuller-bodied Guatemala bean Haas calls The Mysterious Gentleman.

With vintage chic decor such a big part of the Haas appeal, coffee geekiness doesn't feature much here. A charcoal-toned double-storey exterior has history and high ceilings, with tall interior walls painted cement grey.

Plenty of people breakfast with friends or colleagues on weekdays, ignoring the inconsistent service.

The Haas kitchen bakes regularly, supplying everything from cakes and rusks to savoury muffins (spinach, three cheeses or chives and peppers). Sweet muffins looked enticing (the flavour was chocolate and banana the day I visited).

Period armchairs and love seats are upholstered in French glam with unexpected hessian trimmings. Black ceiling fans provide welcome relief from the summer heat.

There are rugs under wooden stools, and some of Helen Melon's homeware and shirts are displayed for sale.

Bokkie and zebra trophies stare at wall-size artworks for sale in large frames.

The homemade croissants aren't bad, if you look past very yellow grated cheese (ham and cheese croissants cost R38).

Lunch-time regulars order sandwiches or the Haas version of bunny chow, made of curry and baguettes. Burgers are sold only on Fridays.

  • Haas Coffee, 19 Buitenkant Street, Cape Town. Open 7am to 5pm on weekdays, 8am to 3pm at weekends. Telephone 021-461-1812, www.haascollective.com
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