There's been a lot of talk about a popular watering hole in Constantia that recently had a revamp. It is Peddlars & Co, where families sit near old mates having a cold one and glammed-up divorcees prowl.
All the Peddlars venues are now spruced up, and chef Brad Ball has upped the ante on the food side. A new dining bar called Graciales will soon be serving tasty, shared plates.
On a busy Friday night, I leaned against a banquette seat inside Volaré, Peddlars' new flagship Italian restaurant. Here Ball concocts what he calls "Italian trattoria fare with a bit of sophistication".
I enjoyed raw tuna crudo slices drizzled with a basil emulsion and capers with lemon zest, adding salt and tang respectively. Poor light and a black plate detracted from the visual appeal, though.
A roll of free-range pork belly with jus, artichoke and sage offered lovely Italian elements, even if a steak knife seemed necessary to slice through Parma ham crackling.
A quail special reminded me of a comforting Sunday roast, deboned and stuffed with minced pork and fennel seeds.
But the dish of the night was outstanding pork ragu pappardelle. A waitress deftly suggested a half portion. Fresh pasta ribbons were cooked past al dente, but justifiably so, mixed with flavourful, tender pork hunks in tomato sauce, crushed fennel seeds adding liquorice hits.
The compact wine list had one or two imaginative labels, while service was of the straightforward, steakhouse kind.
Our dining experience at Volaré aced what the kitchen set out to do: become a neighbourhood favourite by throwing in a skilled chef's extra touches.
- Volaré Ristorante, Peddlars & Co, Constantia. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday.021-794-7747, www.peddlars.co.za
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