Next Generation: Millennials take a sharp turn on the runway

Everybody's (least) favourite trend forecaster, Li Edelkoort, stood in a darkened foyer at the University of Johannesburg and told her flock of onlookers that the future of fashion will be in the hands of younger, smaller brands.

Labels such as those showing tomorrow at the African Fashion International NXTGEN slot at Mercedes-Benz Johannesburg Fashion Week.

With the talent and creativity harnessed by these three past AFI Fast Track Winners, South Africa's fashion future is in good hands.

Akedo

Eleni Labrou said her brand aims to create a fine line between sophisticated and weird design, offering a different viewpoint from what has been considered ''African" design. With her latest collection, Eye of Africa - recently shown at London Fashion Week - she attempts to break free from expectations. Her clean, minimal silhouettes are infused with contrasting textures.

What to expect

Orange, olive green, grey, navy, maroon, white and black. Hand-painted highlights and designed prints on clean forms. Plus collaborations with Thalia Strates (bags) and Pichulik (jewellery).

Oath

When asked to describe his design aesthetic, Rich Mnisi, last year's Fast Track winner, confessed: "It's a mental process I can't put into words, but it takes shape." The shape of his Fall 15 Women's Wear collection is that of the 1990s classic movie Clueless, but with OATH's signature athletic, ready-to-wear, Mnisi twist. "She's quirky, yet cheeky, with no lack of confidence and the knowledge of an encyclopaedia. That's OATH's fall 2015 woman," he said.

What to expect

Burgundy, green and greys, 1990s prep sensibilities meet travelling secretary, possibly heavy coats and luxurious pyjamas.

Land

The collection is named "The Seduction of Impermanence: A nine-act play in which the protagonist experiences the profound sensation that nothing matters". You might fear you'll witness a barrage of extreme avant-garde awkwardness, but experimental restraint, wearability and ease prevail. LAND's Jess Sutherland described her collection as "behind the scenes aesthetic".

What to expect

Cream, ice cream pink, charcoal and a pretty startling red. Beautiful wools, soft fleece, faux furs in clean, soft silhouettes.

• 9:45pm, Friday, Melrose Arch, afi.za.com