Making butter even better

12 March 2015 - 02:37 By Andrea Burgener
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Andrea Burgener
Andrea Burgener
Image: Supplied

It is odd (and even criminal) that the margarine good heart myth still persists.

The real deal

Still odder that there are humans who actually relish the stuff, but thank God this repulsive bleached slime hasn't managed to sideline butter entirely.

Most reasonable eating places will still use butter in all sauces and baking (mind you, many school tuck shops continue to smear the alternative crud onto the daily offerings).

Something you hardly see made at home or in restaurants any more is that great 1970s standby, flavoured butter - also known as compound butter. There are so many uses for the stuff and it's very easy to knock together.

The most famed was Maitre d'Hotel, which is just butter with parsley and lemon, but perfection in the right place.

Moving on from Maitre, here are a variety of great flavoured butters with good ideas about where to plonk them.

In each case all you do is get the butter to room temperature (it may need a minute in a low oven in winter, but do not let it melt) then, using a wooden spoon, mix with the other ingredients, roll into a log or place in ice-cube moulds, cover with cling-film and refrigerate. Or use immediately, of course.

Anchovy butter

Probably my favourite butter of all time, and the easiest. 100g butter / 1 tbsp finely chopped salted anchovies / 1 tbsp chopped Italian parsley. This is at its finest just spread on warm toast, but is also incredible over broccoli, or on roasted caramelised onions.

Basil, parmesan & tomato butter

100g butter / 4 tbsp freshly grated parmesan-style cheese / 10 shredded basil leaves / 1 tbsp finely chopped good quality sun-dried tomatoes / salt to taste. This is brilliant sliced over mushrooms before baking, stuffed into a baked potato or mixed into steamed rice.

Horseradish and chive butter

100g butter / 2 tbsp horseradish / + - 8 crushed green peppercorns / 1 tbsp finely chopped chives / salt to taste. There is almost nothing that this butter doesn't make better. Really great on steak (especially something with big flavour such as rib-eye) or over grilled fish (with an added squeeze of lemon). Chicken breasts slow sauteed in this butter are glorious.

Chilli, lemon zest and garlic butter

The best twist on classic garlic bread imaginable. Use good baguette, Portuguese bolo or ciabatta. 100g butter / 1 green Thai chilli, seeds removed / 1 clove garlic / ½ bunch chives / 30g grated parmesan / zest of one lemon / salt to taste. Deploy as for classic garlic bread. This butter is also unutterably delicious over baby potatoes in their jackets or with steamed green beans.

  • Andrea Burgener is chef at The Leopard restaurant in Melville
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