Prickly Fare: In a succulent setting

01 April 2015 - 02:54 By Kim Maxwell

On a weekend in Robertson, we were keen to find a lunch stop worthy of a detour. Food lovers I asked all pointed to one place: Mo & Rose Wine Bistro, at Soekershof guesthouse on the Robertson-Ashton road. Nearly four years ago German Axel Daniel bought Soekershof with his Italian wife Monica. The luxury guesthouse is the couple's main focus. Daniel also creates a two and three-course bistro menu. Belgians Jeff van Moffelen and wife Ilse alternate with Daniel in the kitchen.We were seated at modern, open-air verandah tables, with grand glimpses of the cactus garden established in 1953.Kranskop wooded chardonnay and De Wetshof Limelight pinot noir were both R35 a Spiegelau glass. Main courses showed off vibrant colours but interspersed too many strong flavours. The country greens were perfect but the confit duck was too salty and the smoky duck-breast slices too dry. Peculiar beetroot dumplings contained fried croutons.The bacon-wrapped pork fillet dish was tender but too intense with its sun-dried tomato pesto sauce, over a barley and diced veg "risotto". The best dishes were starters. Homemade ravioli pockets: two with feta and mint; two holding lamb ragu in a light, herby tomato sauce. And a granular, unusual pecan nut soufflé "special". Quietly comforting, its red onion jam not overly sweet.A smartly dressed family ordered. Dutch tourists chattered. Sadly, a shared chocolate fondant partnering pleasant cherry compote lacked a signature bittersweet kick. A kitchen chat revealed the dark Valrhona chocolate hadn't arrived.We loved the local quiver tree, a toothpick cactus from Bolivia and the plump golden barrel cactus from Mexico, cheekily named mother-in-law's seat. Effort went into a charmingly presented meal. On a late summer's day the garden stole the show.Mo & Rose Wine Bistro, Klaasvoogds West, Robertson. Open for Sunday lunch and dinner Wednesday to Saturday, mid-April until October. 023-626-4134, www.moandrose.co.zaSave the dateWhat to eat: Look to the changing monthly menu, which is tweaked around available ingredients.When to go: Sunday lunch - the best time to appreciate the views.Who to take: Your partner and a couple of friends.What not to do: Get too hung up on the food. This is a guesthouse, occasionally serving other diners.What to drink: Affordable, boutique labels from an extensive, mostly Robertson list. Magnums, vintage wines and craft beer also on offer.Whatever you do: Don't miss the Soekershof cactus garden, where some of the oldest cacti in South Africa grow. Take a stroll before dessert.How much: Two courses at R250. Three courses at R310.The verdict: Go if you're in Robertson but don't make a special trip...

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