Restaurant Review: Bigger, Better Buddha

22 April 2015 - 02:03 By Shelley Seid

The name of the place conjures up an utterly appropriate image of a rotund, happy little man ploughing his way through the 10-course tasting menu, or scoffing the last sliver of perfectly cooked duck. By the end of the meal the name of the place feels more like a personal judgment - it is hard to resist overindulging when plate after plate of not-so-mini portions of rich, Asian-inspired food is placed before you.The Greedy Buddha opened some years ago in Durban North. The odds on it surviving were not great - seating was limited to a veranda (if the wind blew, the restaurant closed), the kitchen was the size of a cupboard and the only toilet was in the Thai restaurant next door. But it worked. The inventive dishes, unique tastes and tapas-style tasting menu earned a loyal following - a bit like an indie trailblazer who spurns the mainstream.Last week, the Greedy Buddha opened in its new home at Gateway. It is now a very stylish 100-seater, with an excellent bar and a wine menu that deserves its own review. The restaurant even has its own toilet.But still, die-hard fans like me were concerned that "going commercial" would mean the restaurant losing its edge. It has not happened. There's a new chef at the helm, Rutger Eysvogel, who has worked with some of the country's über chefs - George Jardine for example, and Richard Carstens. He's been clever with the menu, keeping some of the legends, tweaking others and adding his own creations.On offer are the likes of Sichuan chilli halloumi bites; wontons with butternut, feta and chilli; mains of crispy pork belly with an irresistible smoked potato mousse and apple and teriyaki glaze; and sushi salad with citrus-cured salmon, pickled ginger and an avo puree.Whatever you order you get a tantalisingly eclectic burst of disparate tastes and flavours that show how happy we could all be if we embraced our neighbours. Xenophobia has no place in modern cooking.Open fusionWhen to goWhen you want fusion rather than inertia.Who to takeAnyone with an open mind, bold taste buds and a hearty appetite.How much do you need ?R199 for the 10-course tasting menu (minimum of two), R120 to R170 for mains, R30 to R60 for each tapas dish.Where is it?12 on Palm Boulevard, Gateway, Umhlanga. 031-566-4383...

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