Restaurant Review: This puzzle has some promise

20 May 2015 - 02:13 By Kim Maxwell

Matt Schreuder worked in Zurich for five years before coming back to Cape Town to open Homespun near Table View's beachside strip. He is obviously a gambling man. Homespun is in the frenetic heart of fluorescent-lit franchise restaurant grimness, yet its slate plates lean ambitiously towards finer dining.With a one-page menu, dim lighting and deep house beats, the puzzling decor combines beach house-style beams and wicker chairs with oversized candelabras, velour drapes and booths reminiscent of supper club shows.We took wine, but some laidback western seaboarders tucked into inexpensive bottles for cash donations. Homespun is waiting for a liquor licence.We found out later that chef Ryan Mollentze is only 24. Unfortunately, his inexperience showed on some plates. The pork belly was good: crispy crackling atop tender meat, if a little safe with its Sunday roast and apple puree vibe.A bland fishy main was a disservice to sustainable hake. I've heard it's now off the menu.There were moments of promise. A pulled lamb main had super creamy, umami cauliflower puree. In the beef tataki bright flavours, crumbed balls of rare beef and a clever spin on onion in creams and rings demanded attention as a diner.Folk out that side are lapping it up.Porterfield Road, Table View. Open from Monday to Saturday for dinner. 021-556-2824Save the dateWhat to eatBeef tataki is delicious.Who to takeA group of four is ideal. Only a few tables work well for couples.What not to doOrder fish if it's topped with a herb crust.What to drinkBring your own wine. Other drinks and bottled water are sipped from jam jars.Whatever you doSave space for dessert.How muchStarters are about R55; mains average R130; desserts won't cost over R50.The verdictA promising culinary step-up for the western seaboard...

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