Restaurant Review: It is beer — but you can eat it

27 May 2015 - 02:20 By Jackie Clausen

Fine dining does not usually conjure up thoughts of beer and food combinations, but that is exactly the gauntlet Sean Granger, manager of Granny Mouse Country House in Balgowan, threw down to his chefs - to create a menu amalgamating local craft beer and fancy food. The famous Nottingham Road Brewing Company that concocts its beer just down the road seemed the obvious choice.Said Granger: "It is important to not only support our neighbours but to be as local as possible."Over a three-week period they toiled and tinkered, using beer with everything from sorbet to pork, then held a six-course judging menu.Only two items passed muster and from June 3 they will appear on the winter menu at the Eaves, Granny Mouse's fine-dining restaurant.As one of the lucky guinea pigs at the tasting, my favourite was the deconstructed prawn chowder, which was subtly infused with "Pickled Pig Porter", a full, dark, slightly bitter beer.The soup was poured at the table over a bowl of crispy carrots, potatoes and prawns and hit all the heavenly notes on my palate, even though I'm a non-beer drinker.Some dishes were a bit heavy-handed - the alien-looking "pale ale-infused spheres", for example, that accompanied the delicious braised lamb.Strangely a Tiger Ale-infused koeksister was also a winner, accompanied by abeer-based brioche, bacon ice cream and maple syrup. The beer plays a little trickon the taste buds, counter-balancingthe traditional sweetness of thekoeksister.Of course, there is a broader choice; it includes a five-course tasting menu andà la carte items such as slow-braised pork belly with prawns flambé and red pickled cabbage or herbed potato gnocchi in a garlic cream sauce.The lowdownWhen to go?On a cold winter's night when you've got the time to stay over.Who to take?Anyone who is inclined to mention flavour profiles and beer in the same sentence.What not to do?Bring the kids. They'll be as welcome as a Castle Lite.What to drink?If you are not part of the barley literati, there is a well-stocked wine cellar.How much?Starters range from R60 to R80; mains from R120 to R140; desserts are in the region of R60.Where is it?Granny Mouse Country House and Spa, Balgowan, 033-234-4071..

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