A bhindi that's second to naan

28 May 2015 - 02:02 By Andrea Burgener

I have always loved Melville. But I have never loved its broad and soulless Main Road - the one that moves from Auckland Park in the south towards West Park Cemetery and Beyers Naude at the other end. When the old swimming pool buildings were still there, it had a modicum of appeal. But then money changed hands and the whole glorious shebang was erased in two nights to make space for a shopping centre so cruddy, so blindingly hideous, it makes the Woodmead Value Mart strip look like the Champs-Élysées.It takes a lot for me to go there because it makes me depressed and cross. Then, driving along said road, because goddam it I have to buy Deadly Night Shade preserve from the great Koljander Tuisnywerheid, I see that Bismillah's - the decades-old Fordsburg institution - has opened its eighth branch at the top of the road, near to the old post office. Turns out it has been there for three months. I am overjoyed. The menu is the same: that odd Johannesburg-Pakistani cuisine which includes a milky quasi-butter-chicken (under ''English Dishes"), as well as some hybridised Chinese dishes and mixed grills for Indian families sick of mom's curry.My favourite items are two vegetable offerings, but you must order the dry (not-sauced) bhajia versions. One features cauliflower and potato, the other bhindi (aka okra or ladyfingers), both subtly spiced and hot-wokked to brown perfection. Even my husband, formerly president and treasurer of the International Association for Banning Bhindi, has been completely converted.The naans are among the best in the land, with the garlic naan a shiny blistered bubbling stretchy duvet of deliciousness. It makes even a good pizza base look frankly pathetic. There is only one area which I'd like changed: dimmer switches to tone down the 999000000-watt pendant lights. Bismillah, corner Main Road and St Swithins Avenue. 011-482-1025.Less gummy in your tummyUsually, those who hate okra (Hibiscus esculentus, an indigenous African plant and a member of the mallow family) have been put off by its tendency to gumminess. The gloopy quality is much prized by both gumbo eaters in the USA south and in the African countries from whence they initially got the stuff via unlucky slaves.I was once fed an alarming Nigerian okra and offal stew so mucilaginous it verged on chewing gum. But actually you can avoid the gum altogether. To do this, okra should be cooked fast and furiously. If slicing, the slices should be pressed dry before cooking. Then just hot-wok with salt and chilli. Leaving the pods whole is even better for gloop avoidance.Whole pods are delicious dipped into tempura batter, then deep-fried and served with soy-lemon or mayo.I promise...

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