Open Door, new in rural Constantia, is modern so its central Art Deco bar isn't at odds with the open kitchen. But the remodelled River Café space is sufficiently time-worn, with repurposed beams in ceiling alcoves, and old brass handles and hooks now forming decorative detail on smoky-grey walls. Most were building originals.Staff offered a café menu, or - what we tried - lunch and dinner options. Sommelier and co-owner Neil Grant's wine bottles zigzagged inside a glass display fitting 1000 labels. We ordered easy-drinking Fist of Fancy pinot noir (R160).If you have one dish from executive chef Annemarie Steenkamp make it the nifty vegetarian starter: soft pumpkin puree under spiced seeds, a buttermilk labneh blob; zestiness from crisp-fried root ginger; herb oil. The fun came in dipping curried fritter squiggles into it all.Vegetables also featured creatively in pan-roasted kabeljou, its crisp skin topped with charred turnip slivers, on peas and sweetcorn kernels. A leeky, light veloute tasted of poached oyster salinity.A fireside table showed off stately trees through a former schoolroom's sash windows. Wintry moodiness in a chunk of venison loin; orange sweet potato kept interest; cranberry jus and puy lentils affirming earthiness.By the time desserts were sent, we were hooked. I'd probably skip walnut and banana loaf again, although banana sorbet and blowtorched banana balls were fun. But I loved the guava pudding. Freshness of aniseed panna cotta on a guava and fennel compote. Simplicity, poached guava and homely almond crumbs on top.Steenkamp and Grant stamped buzzy Burrata and Bocca on Cape Town's culinary map. The Open Door experience is different. More polished, like many of its customers. But reliant on cleverly crafted combinations that wow.Save the dateWhat to eatThere's a lunchtime café menu (kale chicken Caesar to beef burgers). Or creative options on a small lunch or dinner a la carte menu.When to goTake in the space over a drink at the bar, followed by dinner. Or lunchtime is lovely near the fire.Who to takeEnjoy with a romantic partner, impress your in-laws or host a business lunch.What not to doOffer the management advice about how everything was before. It's a new concept in an historic venue - relax into the experience.What to drinkWine. Sommelier Neil Grant's vast but approachable list has something for everyone, by bottle or glass.Whatever you doReturn later in the year, once breakfasts on the deck are in operation.How muchA la carte starters R62-R89; mainsR98-R172; desserts R42-R62.The verdictPricey yet high quality.Where to find itConstantia Uitsig, Spaanschemat River Road. Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner; Sunday lunch. 021-794-3010, www.opendoorrestaurant.co.za..