Seven days a week for seven years straight, Doreen Alcock has been lining the shelves of The Sweetest Thing with handmade French-style pastries and cakes of exemplary quality. When she opened her patisserie, in a grandly decorated Victorian building on Simon's Town's main drag, she was described in print as "the most exciting young pastry chef in South Africa".So what's changed since 2008? Alcock's range has expanded to savouries, breakfast pastries, truffles and more.Happily, The Sweetest Thing's primary drawcard - the pastry case - is as good as it ever was.Her individual lemon meringue tarts appear in the window like coiffed 17th century ladies of the court, each one sporting a multitude of piped white cowlicks. Viewed from above, her fruit tarts look like glossy posies.In the past seven years I've tried a large number of cakes and tarts from Alcock's repertoire. I have yet to encounter a runny glaze, a tired raspberry or a soggy base.On the contrary: her pastry cases have the snap of dense, buttery biscuits; her fillings are refined in texture and never over-sugared. Her decorations are neither dowdy nor overly flamboyant.A pastry shouldn't look perfect. A cake that looks like it's been decorated by a machine is the culinary equivalent of an airbrush painting: lifeless and kitsch.Despite the beauty of colour and surface that Alcock achieves, the real effort has gone into the substance. Complementary textures and balances of flavour are her real strength.If you don't believe me, try the citrus cheesecake. How is it possible to experience sweet, sour, cheese, cream and fruit in one bite? Alcock knows.This is the kind of treat food that makes you grin, shake your head and run out of adjectives.It's not just the sweet things either. Online, one happy customer declared Alcock's Quiche Lorraine "the best I've ever had".Another man - no stranger to a meat pie, apparently - said The Sweetest Thing's roast lamb and rosemary pie was "the best ever".At The Sweetest Thing you'll find things to eat that are offered for pleasure, not sustenance. In Alcock's hands, there's nothing superficial about that.Save the dateWhat to EatFrom the display case: a French fruit tartlet, a milles feuilles (layered custard tart) or a chocolate éclair?When to goThe selection will be diminished by afternoon tea. Consider mid-morning coffee and cake or fill a cakebox for after-dinner dessert.Who to TakeMum. Obviously.Whatever you doGrab something on the way out: a bag of meringues topped with flaked almonds, a gift box of chocolate truffles or a meat pie for lunch.What to drinkCoffee is more French than tea.What not to doIf you're Banting, go across the street.How muchLess than it's worth.The verdictA miracle of everyday excellence.Where to find it82 St Georges Street, Simon's Town, (021) 786-4200..