This tooth is for turning

20 August 2015 - 02:12 By Andrea Burgener

There was going to be a recipe for perfect lemon tart right here, but after watching That Sugar Movie at the weekend, I've become temporarily saccharine-phobic. I'm sure this will pass in a few weeks, but meanwhile, with my teeth aching at the mere thought of anything sugary, I'm fulfilling my most savoury desires.How lucky then to get wind of a curry joint I hadn't yet tried. It's inside the always odd Dunkeld West Centre on Jan Smuts Avenue. Tucked behind the goodish butcher, and thankfully far away from the famously bad fishmonger, is Cornucopia.The décor is strangely like a farm-stall restaurant near a highway, and it also seems to be part spaza shop and part toasted sandwich joint.This might make you doubt its prowess as a curry purveyor, but fear not: here you will find good curries in abundance, most notably wonderful dhal dishes (the Dhal Makhni is especially great), as well as the usual lamb and chicken suspects in mainly Durban mode.Always choose rotis over rice here. The former are light, un-oily perfection, while the rice is of the slightly overcooked Thai variety.They have the now ubiquitous cauliflower rice, too, for Banting followers.I didn't try the bunny chow, but droves of people come in and out for these. The bunnies look plump and juicy, with that fantastic pickled carrot atchar that always nestles at the ankles of a good bunny.Cornucopia is open seven days a week. The best thing is that it starts serving mid-morning. 011-268-1937.There are so many curry cookbooks out there and, as with everything in life, it's about sifting the good from the bad and the ugly. If this section of your cookbook collection is lacking, I think these are the ones to go for: it's not a definitive guide of course, simply the favourites from my clutch. 1. Indian Delights, edited by Zuleikha Mayat: this has a similar breadth and charm to Kook en Geniet. It features everything from green peppers with methi to remedies for ants and cockroaches (Women's Cultural Group of Durban). 2. Favourite Indian Food by Diane Seed: a small but intelligently curated selection of dishes by a brilliant but locally unsung food writer (Ten Speed Press). 3. 100 Essential Curries by Madhur Jaffery: here is the elegant doyenne of Indian cooking in condensed form. From chickpeas cooked in tea to eggs masala, everything is perfect (My Kitchen Table). 4. Durban Curry, So Much of Flavour, by Erica Platter and Clinton Friedman: featuring bunny chows, mango atchar and an infectious love for Durban. This is a fantastic book that all of us should have on our shelves (PawPaw Press)...

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