To Market: Cross the road to chicken heaven

26 August 2015 - 02:45 By Erica Platter

Bumped into chef Chris Black the other weekend at the Litchi Orchard market, Salt Rock, far from his native habitat in the highlands of Hillcrest and Kloof. It's a 70km trek, although he could break the journey at Lupa, the Durban North wing of his flying Italian restaurant group. He was full of enthusiasm: "I just love all of this!"We were in Home Grown, the little farm store on the Litchi Orchard premises. Everything is organic, biodynamic, hormone-free, but I go specifically for the chicken from local farmer Matt Thompson.It is brilliant: memories of childhood Sunday lunches featuring my dad's roast scratchers. A flavour lost in time, battery cages and supermarket freezers. Now I am in chicken heaven again.The eggs are equally fine. My mayo has never turned out better.No wonder Chris is here.Home Grown has some organic veggies, but for the fullest panoply, anything from that green pointy brocco-cauli, plump fennel, outrageously enormous brinjals, bouquets of basil, and the leanest green beans, all picked at dawn a kilometre away from the market. Beat that carbon footprint.The stall to visit is small farmer, shopkeeper, and curry and preserves queen Cindy Valayadam's.This market was founded in a litchi orchard by the Eb family, and they bring to it whatever may be in season. Like their macadamias. Forget the rancid, ancient, often foreign objects masquerading as nuts in big stores: these are the real, incomparable deal.They're often used by another market star, Kerry Hedges-Eb of bespoke bakery Lemon Canary. Her trademark: local and seasonal. She makes orange cakes only in the winter citrus months, for example. She's a tenant of Litchi Orchard's latest venture, a mini store/workshop that is open daily.I recently spotted her loading an elaborate sculpture into someone's boot. Multi-layered, jewel-bright, covered with fantastical creatures and plants: a cake commissioned by Ardmore Ceramics.Next door is ice cream wizard Amanda Maidman, of Scoop, also showcasing local produce. Pineapple and ginger; strawberries and granadillas; with the flavours changing to reflect what is farm freshest.Of course, there is much more, including art and crafts. The Deelish Sisters' eggs Benedict breakfast rolls; on-site roasted coffee from Beanstruck; a resident troop of cute mongooses.But it all happens only once a month, every second Saturday. What about other weekends?Head north again. First Saturday of each month, to Ballito's Lifestyle Centre, which goes rustic with its Foodies' Market.Cindy and Amanda are also there, plus Col'Tempo charcuterie, Mauritian vindaye, Greek spanakopita, home and artisanal bakes, cheese and wine, and pasta.And now, a new North Coast weekend destination: the Umhlali Village Market. Yes, Cindy should be there. But this is mostly an arts and crafts fair, as in Clarens, says organiser Vernon Malyon.Consult the web about dates. They do not yet seem to be firmly fixed. But the first event last month was a huge success...

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